coffee | Here Comes The Planet

We got up at 6am and snuck into the hotel dining room to steal a couple of tiny cakes each from the closed breakfast room. On weekdays it opened at 6:30am but on weekends it didn’t open until later – not much good when we had a train to catch at 7:13am.

We caught a taxi to the station and boarded with time to spare. The view from the train was lovely – trees, mountains and the occasional castle or village.

Along the way the conductor came along to check the tickets. He paused at Luke’s e-ticket and said ‘it’s for tomorrow’.

He didn’t seem terribly bothered by it but we were very confused. When Luke checked, it turns out we’d somehow skipped over a day when booking accomodation. Since we couldn’t check in to Hallstatt until tomorrow and our train tickets were technically invalid, we decided to get off at Salzburg and spend the night there. Fortunately Luke found a lovely hotel right by the station, the Cocoon.

The exterior wasn’t super exciting, I’ll admit.

We dropped our bags off at 10am and then went for a walk towards the old town.

We walked through the Mirabel Gardens on the way.

A bunch of people on a tour skipped around the edge of this fountain, if anyone knows why please leave a comment… is it a sound of music thing?

Luke had looked up a good spot for coffee and we stopped at Kaffee Alchemie, where I had what was definitely the best coffee of the trip so far. I’m not a coffee snob but in my humble estimation this was just perfect.

While we sat and ate our absolutely delicious apricot and cream cheese danishes we watched athletes outside line up outside for the bus that would take them to their race. The schadenfreude was strong!

Meanwhile…

So good!

After we had not one but two cappuccinos and enthused effusively at the proprietor about the quality of his coffee, we headed out into the old town.

Lots of lovely flowers out.

I bought a few postcards then we headed for the funicular.

It looks crowded but we got straight on. I think the worst of the summer crowds don’t start until July.

The funicular ride was short but swift and took us up to the castle. Fortifications on the site had existed since Roman times, over 1600 years ago.

Of course, it had been expanded significantly over the many centuries, mostly during the medieval period.

A model of Salzburg, which profited from the salt trade for centuries.

The castle was often the home of leaders of the Catholic Church.

There were displays of armour and military uniforms spanning many centuries.

I found the more modern displays, the ones on WW1, very interesting. I hadn’t really thought about how that war would be portrayed from an Austrian standpoint. It made me more interested to learn about what started WW1 (I knew about the assassination of ADFF but not why it was done) so when we got back to the hotel we watched some YouTube videos about it.

After wandering through all the displays we headed back down the hill. After nachos for lunch yesterday we decided on more Mexican today.

Despite the name, the Burrito Factory was excellent.

While we sat and ate we listened to two students next to us discussing their travels. One said she had been travelling with three large suitcases and two cartons of belongings that included a rice cooker and hairdryer and the girl she was sitting with paused and then said ‘Wow, I wouldn’t be so … brave to try to travel with so much stuff,’ and I nearly laughed out loud.

The race people had been heading to finished in the middle of the old town and we walked past as a few people finished.

The previous evening Jane and I had been talking about the fact that it is (or was) a controversial thing to give children participation awards and trophies and how it doesn’t really help build resilience, but I noticed all the adults doing the races today were getting quite a large shiny medal to wear😂.

The crowds were really out in the early afternoon and the touristy part of the city was packed.

We went back to the hotel to have a rest and I watched some WW1 videos on YouTube.

The river was a popular place but the shore looked very rocky.

The evening mainly consisted of a walk around the local area and some drinks in the hotel bar. We had a pizza at a pretty basic local tavern by the station and had hoped to visit a jazz club near the hotel but nothing was happening when we walked by.

Oh, there was also a 24 hour vending machine place with a vast range of things available, including bowls of salad, alcoholic drinks, smoking paraphernalia and cans of chilli.

If you’re ever looking for accommodation in Salzburg I can highly recommend the Cocoon. The rooms had aircon (a rare thing in our price bracket!) good pillows, mattresses, friendly staff and for almost the first time since we arrive in St Moritz no cleaner tried to get into our room before 9am. I don’t know if we’ve been unlucky, but Jane said the same had happened to them, with the cleaner at one place coming straight in and starting to clean the room while they packed! None of us had ever overstayed our checkout time… it was bizarre.

Our room had a hanging seat but it was facing the wall, which was a bit weird.

Breakfast the next morning was great too, bacon, sausages and three kinds of eggs.

Next stop: Hallstatt.

Despite initially feeling that Vienna wasn’t quite as nice as Munich, we have seen and done some lovely things here.

We chose a hostel (Wombat’s) that is right next to the Nachtmarkt, markets that run along a long, wide median strip between two roads. It’s a bit less than a kilometre long and the stalls open from early morning to fairly late at night, except on Sundays. As an aside, we are quickly learning that being in European cities on a Sunday means few shops or anything else open so you have to plan your excursions and grocery shopping accordingly.

The markets have lots of great fresh food, although it’s worth doing a sweep up and down to find the best prices as they do vary a bit. We bought soup for breakfast yesterday – it was served inside a bread roll so all we needed was a spoon. Very environmentally friendly! We’re hoping the guy will be back there tomorrow so we can have it for breakfast again. This whole idea of serving hot food in bread rolls is definitely one I’ll be taking home with me.

Gulash served in bread in Krumlov – I forgot to take a picture of the soup in bread in Vienna.

I bought fresh pasta, pesto and vegetables to make into dinner last night. Even though hostel kitchens are always pretty basic the one here isn’t too bad and we ended up sharing our meal with another traveler, Alex, who started chatting to us in the kitchen.

Yesterday we also did a walking tour of the city. It was pretty good, but nowhere near as good as the Munich tour. Nothing beats a tour guide who is funny as well as informative. There seem to be free walking tours everywhere in Europe. The idea is you tip the guide what you think the tour is worth at the end. Doing some sort of tour is a great way to start off in a new city – get one’s bearings and then have an idea of where to go back to. Although we did find Vienna mysteriously difficult to navigate and got lost a few times.

We had trouble finding the Sacher Hotel one afternoon but eventually made it for a piece of the original (well, not *the* original) Sacher Torte. As one might expect, the place is filled almost exclusively with tourists, but the cake was really nice and the iced chocolate was even better. If I hadn’t been trying to moderate my calories somewhat we’d surely have found a few more places selling tortes in order to compare.

One of the last things we did in Vienna was spend an evening at a coffee house – the Kafka Cafe, which several people I know (Anth, I’m looking at you) would’ve loved. Old leather booths, locals sitting around smoking and chatting, endless streams of coffee and beer – it was great. We got chatting to a local girl who’d spent time in Ireland and spoke perfect English with an Irish accent, which was slightly disconcerting. She assured us we’d found the best cafe in Vienna. Lucky us!