London: War Rooms and the Mithraeum

On the advice of a large number of people, we bought tickets to the War Rooms, the tiny rooms and and tunnels that Winston Churchill and the British government used as their operations headquarters in WW2.

After a breakfast at home we caught the tube to Embankment and then walked via St James Park.

The War Rooms were very interesting, even for someone like me, who will actively avoid war-related things. We got audio guides and then walked through the narrow and dim corridors, peaking into rooms and trying to imagine what the space would be like when full of tobacco smoke and people rushing around.

In between the historical sections is a large room with lots of detail about Winston Churchill’s life. When buying tickets they said to allow 2.5 hours, but if you really wanted to see and read everything I’d say 3 hours minimum. Unfortunately, in the past I’ve found those sort of estimates usually overdo it and I’d booked a table at 1pm at a nearby pub. Lea and Pete had to rush a bit, which I felt bad about, but it’s hard to predict these things.

It was quite dark the whole way through.
Winston Churchill, a man after my own heart, had noiseless typewriters installed.

We had lunch at the Blue Boar, a pub not far from the War Rooms. It had recently been voted the best pub in London but, being in an office area, was quiet on Sunday.

A gigantic Yorkshire pudding for Luke.
Very fancy bathroom for a pub!

I left before everyone had finished eating as I was going to meet a friend and everyone else was going to see The Play That Goes Wrong. Luke and I saw it on our last trip but he wanted to see it again.

Luke and I had met Patrick on our Haggis bus tour last time we were here and added him on Facebook. He’d offered to come meet up in London as he only lived an hour away so we arranged to meet at The Crosse Keys.

The Cross Keys is one of the Wetherspoons chain of pubs, which are somewhat notorious for being downmarket but this one was in an old bank building and quite grand.

Patrick hadn’t changed a bit and we had a good catch up about all our travels then headed to the London Mithraeum, which was just around the corner.

Patrick had said he’d wanted to see it so I invited myself along. It’s a Roman Temple that was unearthed by developers and remained a mystery until the last day of the excavation when the head of a statue of Mithras, a Roman god, was unearthed on the site. Not much is known of the cult except that it was male-only (I have no idea how they know this) and there would have been a statue of the god slaying or wrestling a bull at the alter.

The exhibition was in the original location, under an office building. Before going down to the site we looked at an installation of urns, all suspended from the ceiling by rope and fitted with microphones. As we walked around them the microphones picked up the vibration of the urns and each one had a different note. Two of the urns were from Roman times.

Downstairs, the temple was in a dark room. Once a group was in they lowered the lights and played sounds of people speaking Latin and the atmosphere became a bit smoky. There was an outline of the god statue and it was all very evocative. Apparently the cult lasted around 400 years.

Very interesting!

Next we walked to Postman’s Park via St Paul’s Cathedral and the ruined church park.

The park has a very sad memorial to everyday heroes who died trying to save someone – a mosaic wall with names and short descriptions of what they died doing. For example, people who died trying to save someone who was drowning.

After that we said goodbye and I caught the tube back to the flat, where Luke, Lea and Pete had just returned. They enjoyed the play a lot and reminded me of many of the funny scenes I’d forgotten.

Luke in the window.

We all had a rest before finally heading to Dishoom for dinner.

We arrived at almost 10pm and, unsurprisingly, were seated straight away. We shared some rather spicy curries, cheese and chilli toast, broccoli salad and naan. It was at the high end of our spice tolerance but we all coped and no doubt it made us stronger.

We walked home, glad Friday and Saturday nights were past and our noisy neighbourhood would be a little quieter.

London Day 3: Dishoom and Oxford Street

Today was Lea and Pete’s theatre marathon – both parts of The Cursed Child in one day. Luke and I returned to Kings Cross to see if we could get into Dishoom for breakfast.

Success!

No wait this time and we had a lovely waitress who told us she was very hungover. The restaurant is certainly the most upmarket decor I’ve ever seen in an Indian restaurant. It manages to capture a very historical feel while also being opulent and fashionable. The menu had Indian takes on western breakfast items as well as more traditional fare.

I had an omelette with coriander and spices, Luke had the egg and bacon naan with chilli jam.

I know photos of food aren’t all that interesting but I want to remember these dishes so I can add some of these ideas to my own cooking when I get home.

After that we parted ways. Luke went to have lunch with a former work colleague who is now working in London.

Luke and his friend Mark. Apparently the film they were working on did some filming in Regent Street.

I had thought to go to the gallery but I wanted a better-fitting pair of leggings from Primark so I thought I’d do that on the way. Oxford Street was heaving with people and when I got into Primark the line was about 50 people long.

I tried Next next, where there were far fewer people and they had a cafe with a toilet in their two storey shop, which I needed to use. I tried on leggings and some jeans and ended up buying the jeans (this really isn’t my most interesting post ever, is it?) and bought a drink at the cafe, only to find the toilet was not working.

This is the third time in two days I’ve been into a business where the toilet was unavailable and I don’t think I’ve ever once seen this at home. It feels like people put the sign up just to avoid having people use their bathroom… I’d be fascinated to know if it’s patrons making a mess, a lack of staff to clean the facilities, actual broken plumbing or what.

Anyhow, after getting changed and whatnot on a day that felt quite warm (it was 19 but my body has adjusted to the cooler weather) I was feeling a bit annoyed and decided to have a quiet afternoon.

Luke met me at the Prince Arthur for a drink then we came back to the apartment and just lay around. Somehow I still managed to walk over 10km, every day has been between 10 and 15, which is pretty good. I’m glad I’m keeping up the distances even though the hiking part of the holiday is done. we’ve both noticed our feet get more sore on the hard concrete but I do prefer walking to catching the tube, you get to see more and get better orientated.

We had a late dinner (8:30! This holiday is changing all my habits and routines) at Frida, which is right next door to the Greek place we are at last night. They do Mexican and it was very nice, and even nicer when a table of 20-something British and American girls left halfway through – they’d been shouting their conversation to each other despite being in a tiny restaurant. The relief in the room was palpable.

The main excitement of the meal was watching a bus driver get out of his bus and shout at the driver of a black van right outside the restaurant window. Earlier a fight had almost started at a bar just down from our flat.. I don’t know what was in the air last night but it was very rowdy for London!

Lea and Pete got back around 10 and said they really enjoyed the show. Luke had booked them a table for dinner at an Italian restaurant very close to the theatre and it ended up being a great idea because apparently there were hoards of people trying to find dinner in the theatre district.

Portobello Road Markets tomorrow, something I’d not seen in any of my previous visits but Lea and Pete have been before so they get it be tour guides tomorrow!

To finish here’s a photo for Mum. She’ll know why.