I have never really heard anything good about Naples that wasn’t pizza-related. Perhaps a rumour about good museums, but when people talk about the city it is always as something of a cesspool of humanity and actual garbage.
To be honest, this photo could just have easily been taken in Rome or (language aside) London.
Perhaps it was to see if it was really as bad as people say that I decided I wanted to come here. I mean, could it really be more filthy than some Asian capitals like Bangkok and Ho Chi Minh? And of course with Luke’s pizza obsession we were going to come here eventually.
We arrived by train and I was surprised at how new and shiny the main station was and linea 1 was entirely air conditioned too.
Also can I just show you this outfit that I took a sneaky photo of as this lady was getting off the train? Totally irrelevant but what an amazing item of clothing. Where would you even buy something like that? Not that I need to know since I’d never do it justice but… wow. Also I’d have it soaked in massive and undignified sweat patches within about five seconds of getting off the train but that’s a different matter.
When we reached our Airbnb flat the owner told us that the station is so nice because it is only a year old and it wasn’t representative of the rest of the network. Too bad!
Our Airbnb has also recently been done up and has some rather interesting lighting features – three colour-controllable LED strips in one wall and strip lighting around the ceiling. It’s more tasteful than it sounds and it’s actually a spacious apartment too, with lots of food available for breakfast and snacks. Pastries, biscuits, milk and juices. Very nice! We bought a litre bottle of Bombay Sapphire in the Croatian duty free ($35 AUD – bargain!) that we are taking with us from place to place for our evening post prandial drinks.
Also the apartment is on the ground floor, which is always nice! Especially in Naples where there are miles of stairs everywhere anyhow.
The atrium of our apartment block.
Now I have a travel tip for you!
We have gotten into the habit, if there isn’t an ice cube tray in our freezer, of pouring water into the bottom of some glasses before we go out exploring then freezing the whole. This means a nice cold glass into which you can pour wine or whatever when you get home after a day’s hard sightseeing.
Luke had done some research and made a map of pizzerias that are generally considered top-notch. One was quite a walk from the others so we decided to hit that one first. Plus it had tables so we could dine in. Quite a few Neopolitan pizzerias are just grab-and-go storefronts.
It opened at 7pm so we had time to walk around a bit. Naples street art seems to be a cut above anything we saw in Rome. Which wouldn’t be hard since all we saw in Rome was tagging. Urgh.
We tried to find a bar for a drink but they all seemed to be stand-up affairs. I found a blog that said drinking isn’t big in Naples. What? Italians not big on drinking? This didn’t really fit all my stereotypes of Italian culture. More research will be required.
We got back to Starita as they opened and had already decided what we wanted. We were having their traditional Margherita and their specialty, a deep fried pizza. For this one the crust is deep fried until it is puffy then quickly baked with topping on.
I preferred the traditional, Luke preferred the fried crust but both were excellent.
While I would not go anywhere near so far as to say we are experts, we know a reasonable amount about pizza. Luke helped kick-start a pizza documentary that we have watched several times and if you read our entry on pizza in New York you’ll know how much we love it. I also like making my own from scratch at home so I was keen to get ideas on how to improve it.
Naples is the birthplace of pizza, but from Naples pizza spread via migrants to New York and Boston before being popularised in the rest of Italy. It began as a way for bakers to slightly cool the base of their ovens so that loaves of bread would not burn. To stop the pizza inflating like a balloon (as pita bread does), tomato sauce would be spread on it. This became a cheap early morning food for workers in Naples and then its popularity meant pizza was served all day. Putting cheese on pizza didn’t happen immediately – the Margherita was invented to honour a queen and the basil added to pay homage to Italy’s flag.
In Australia we think of ‘marinara’ as a seafood pizza but here it means a pizza with only tomato sauce and herbs, no cheese. Pizza here is very different to pizza in most other places. It is cooked unbelievably quickly – in as little as a minute – and the sauce is pure pulped tomatoes. The base is charred but the whole thing is a bit soupy in the middle and there isn’t as much cheese as we like to pile on at home. The joy of Neapolitan pizza is in the freshness of the ingredients. For the true traditional pizza the tomatoes must have been grown on the slopes of Mount Vesuvius. The tomatoes taste so tangy and salty-sweet that, combined with the olive oil and cheese there is a buttery-richness that is magical.
All styles of pizza are good and pizza is a dish that is reinvented over and over around the world. Experiencing it in Naples doesn’t mean you have had the world’s best, it means you have added a dimension to your appreciation of it. At least that’s my feelings on the subject!
I would love to know what other people have thought of pizza they have eaten in Naples – or anywhere around the world! Where have you most or least enjoyed it?
2 thoughts on “First Pizza in Naples!”
Naples, the best and the worst if everything. It’s a very polarising city like no other. I hope that since you are on the ground floor there is no garbage strike as normally it’s a pretty awful situation but when they don’t collect it in the summer it can become pretty gross. There’s a travel hack I’ve not tried out but always think it could be useful in Naples- the old second wallet switch- having an old wallet with some worthless notes and a few expired credit cards in it to offer up to any would be thieves, especially if it’s sort of visible, you can be pickpocketed without violence and hopefully by the time they realise the cards are useless you’ll be further away. Another antiques dealer client who travels often swears by buying a paper in the local language and having it visible in your bag or under the arm. Someone else suggested writing a couple of fake codes on the back of your credit card so if they try them all and they’re wrong, the auto bank should swallow it! We actually find the ambiance and pizzas were better in Sorrento, we usually have a margarita or a Quattro fromage- very simple but if the base is perfect and the ingredients balanced- mmmmmm.it may be a little late now for wisteria but it is one of life’s pleasures to sit near the flowering wisteria eating fresh pizza and chilled wine while looking across to Vesuvius. The street art definitely has picked up there, it was pretty ho hum last time we were there ( at least as bad as Rome’s) but your photos are fabulous. Have fun, look after each other and don’t get mugged!
Good tips! We did get a little of the last of the wisteria in Frascati but nothing like I’m sure it would be in Spring. I’ll pass the money tips on to Luke as he’s in charge of the wallet. We have only been taking out enough spending money for the day… I might leave the cards behind!