Lake District

Driving around the Lake District is like walking a tightrope in an art gallery. Death lurks around every tight, stone-walled, sheep-strewn corner but your eyes constantly stray to the epic vistas that surround you.
Today Mum and I drove through scenery that I’m sure I’ve seen in car commercials – mossy forests, windswept valleys, past tumbling waterfalls and cottages that are literally (and I do mean literally) from a Beatrix Potter book.
To see the Lake District in any weather is to understand why authors, poets, craftsmen, and artists find the place so inspiring.

Honiston Pass.

It is countryside made for walking and criss-crossed with thousands of trails. Mum and I spotted many walkers on high ridges and every car park was full of  families in sensible clothing carrying rucksacks and walking poles.
Every track was enchantingly inviting.

Tell me you wouldn’t follow this path.

Next chance I get I’m buying an os map and some more waterproof clothing and heading out. Although possibly not in the school holidays.
I’m not done with you yet, Lake District.

Totally Self Indulgent Food Post.

I’ve tried really hard not to post too much about food but you’re going to have to humour me here – or skip this post which is totally acceptable, especially since there’s no photos because this hotel is so fancy I felt a bit embarrassed about taking a camera into the dining room even though the staff are so lovely they probably would’ve gone up to my room when I realised my error. Not to worry, I’m determined to come back. Anyhow, here’s the damage – make sure you’re not feeling hungry.

Mum and I spent the afternoon in the seriously classy bar watching the rain come down.

First we looked at the menus and chose our starter, then our intermediate (yes, that’s a thing), main and decided to wait and see of we could fit in dessert and cheese.

Before we were invited into the dining room we were brought a plate of canapés. Salmon mousse in cucumber with caviar, a tiny rarebit with pineapple and steak tartare on toast. Each was a tiny work of art.

Then it was into the dining room and a board of bread. Three kinds of tiny rolls, one lemon scented, one brown with pieces of apricot and the last focaccia with an olive embedded in it. Mum didn’t eat any bread but I later regretted having one of each. But also didn’t because they were delicious.

Next was the starters. Mum had king scallops and pork belly with black pudding puree, I had gravadlax with crab, beetroot and more caviar. I’ve never had gravadlax but in Archer they mention it so I thought I’d give it a try. Turns out I’d had something very similar in the Cook Islands several times. Delicious!

Next up, the course I didn’t know existed – intermediates! We both chose the citrus sorbet with candied orange. This was amazing. Pure orange flavour. On reflection, this is probably why I didn’t need dessert.

Mains (finally). Mum had an amazing naverin of lamb neck (I think naverin must translate into ‘piece’) that literally fell apart. Literally. Amazing. I had the roast crown of Cumbrian beef, which I could pull apart with my fork. I have a feeling the word ‘amazing’ is getting too much of an airing today, but what the heck, this was amazing. The oxtail suet pudding was almost better than the roast and served in a tower, like all fancy food should be.

By that time we were fearing our ability to get out of our seats, let alone make it up the stairs. We turned down the last two courses then we bravely staggered to the bar, waiter carrying our bottle of wine and glasses. Now I’m ensconced in a wine-red studded leather armchair and thinking longingly of the parfait I would’ve had, followed by the unpasteurized soft goat’s cheese I would’ve finished off with, had I not been afraid my sides would split.

But we’re not done. Having told Danny we’d not require our final two courses he took pity on us and brought a plate of hand made chocolates to tide us over.

I can’t tell if they want us to move in or they’re trying to kill us.

The Lake District

This post should really be called ‘Amanda accidentally stays in a place of extreme luxury’ because that’s what happened.

Yesterday I booked accommodation for Mum and I. We’d decided one night at the south-ish end of the Lake District and one at the north, giving us a day to drive around or, in the unlikely event that the weather smile on the British public during the half term school break, do some walking.

I searched for something moderately nice and under 100 pounds a night and there was nothing decent in Kendal or Windermere so I booked the Merewood Country Hotel, which is closer to Ambleside (as an aside, how adorable are English place names? We drove through Pudding Norton the other day and there’s a suburb of Birmingham called Mouse Sweet. Seriously.). It was cheaper than the place we stayed in Warrington (Best Western-type establishment next to a motorway) and included a full breakfast. But check this out.

the bar, where I’m sitting now. The view from the windows is over Windermere. Well, mostly it’s rain but there’s definitely some lake-like thing in the distance.

This place has a library, for god’s sake. Every room has a functioning fireplace. If I was denied the Lebua in Bangkok I would accept this place as a strong substitute.

The entrance hall. It’s pretty much every Georgette Heyer book come to life. And if you don’t know who Georgette Heyer is, you’re missing out on the best Georgian/Victorian romance novels since Jane Austin.

It was the country home of some lord and his much more posh hunting lodge is just up the hill. More posh than this! Needless to say I having nothing appropriate to wear but neither does Mum… in fact none of the guests are dressed as nicely as the staff here. I’m slightly concerned about what to wear to dinner in the dining room, which looks more fancy than the rest of the house. I think my dream holiday would involve swanning around somewhere like this in some extremely large and swishy gowns (think Dangerous Liaisons), flirting with handsome men and eating extremely small cakes from large silver platters. Tell me I’m not alone in this.

The Library.

To finish off my massive post-a-thon for today, here’s a picture of Mum from this morning. We drove through Manchester on the way here and stopped in Burnage Lane, where Mum grew up. The house she lived in has been replaced but the street was familiar and so were the shops and the place names.

My mum is great :-).

Warrington

Mum and I set off for Warrington this morning. We left a sunny Cambridge in sandals and shorts and found icy rain and winds near Manchester. Bloody English weather!

We came to visit my grandmother’s side of the family, in particular my second cousin Geoffrey and my … hrm… well, his father and my grandmother’s brother, Stanley. My great-uncle? Stanley is turning 100 this year. Not that you’d know it – I’ve not met many people on the verge of turning 100 but if they all looked as good as Stanley I’d be surprised. Obviously I’m hoping this is hereditary.

Mum and I booked into our hotel and Geoffrey came to pick us up. I was immediately struck by his resemblance to my grandmother and, to a lesser degree, my mother. My family doesn’t have really distinctive features like big eyebrows or beaky noses so I think resemblances can be more tricky to spot, but there was definitely something around the eyes that was familiar.

Geoffrey drove us around a bit to see houses that Mum semi recalled (last time she was here was over 50 years ago at the age of 16) then to see Stanley. A little deaf, Stanley had no idea who Mum was to begin with but we talked and he clearly recalled his visit to Australia in about 1978 and it turned out that I’d met him, although being around 2 years old at the time it is no surprise that I don’t recall the occasion.

Geoffrey’s brother Nigel and his partner dropped by and we all talked and looked at some of Mum’s photos – and of course we all took some photos. It was so strange hearing a group of people talk in an accent I only associate with my grandfather (he is from nearby also).

Nigel, Mum and Geoffrey. Unfortunately the only photo I took of Stanley was rubbish – I’m hoping Mum or Geoffrey’s are better.

After that we went to Geoffrey’s place and his tortoises! I had not expected to see so many animals on this visit – everyone we visited bar Stanley had dogs and cats and Geoffry had rabbits as well. The tortoises were quite big too and one was over 20 years old. Amazing!

I want a pet tortoise or two! I bet they’d travel well in my backpack;).

We adjourned to a restaurant down the road for dinner before briefly visiting Geoffrey’s son (my third cousin?) Oliver and his family.

So many new faces! Everyone was lovely and I’m glad that we got to meet them. It’s not every day you meet family for the first time and Geoffrey particularly was so hospitable and lovely, driving us around and telling us what had happened to everyone.

Tomorrow we’re heading to Burnage Lane, where Mum spent her childhood before moving to Australia at age 11. Then after that is a relatively short drive to the Lake District where we’re spending two nights.

Friends and Food at the Cambridge Beer Festival

This past week has all been leading up to the big weekend of the CBF and Leigh and Nikki visiting from Edinburgh. I managed to rope Jen in at the last moment and Matt made it down too, so add to that two days of blazing sunshine we ended up having an absolutely brilliant weekend.

Nikki and Leigh arrived first. Luke and I picked them up from Stansted on Friday and took them back to Bar Hill briefly before catching a taxi into town to maximise our festival attendance. The festival was absolutely rammed with people and everyone was indoors due to the evening being freezing and wet. We ate, talked and jostled for space until it was 10:30 and we were all kicked out. We repaired back to Andrew’s for much drinking and talking.

The most difficult way to drink.

There’s something very cathartic about talking to people (and I’ll be honest, a girl) from home. Nikki and I drifted off to the kitchen, then the bedroom, then back to the loungeroom in a night of epic conversations and catching up. A lot of drinking took place too, which meant a rather slow start the next morning.

I ended up asking Jen to catch a taxi from the station while I dealt with my headache (and felt monumentally guilty) then, mostly recovered, we all headed into town to make the most of the afternoon in the best way possible.

Punting on the Cam – a classic Cambridge experience. Normally I think photos make events look more pleasant than they often are. This afternoon was not one of those times.

It was gorgeous, just as pretty as I remembered, though it was a shame we missed out on hiring a punt and doing it ourselves. We had a good laugh at some guys who’d punted themselves into a willow tree and couldn’t get out but were shouting out to everyone going past that it was completely intentional.

Next was the final day of the festival. The ground had dried out enough to sit on and then eventually we got a table and drank and chatted until the sun went down and the cold started to seep in.

Back at Andrew’s Matt had just arrived and we stayed up for a while eating pizza and sharing youtube clips but we were all rather tired and couldn’t manage another huge night.

Pancakes for breakfast the next morning before waving off Matt, Leigh and Nikki. Jen joined Andrew, Mum, Luke and I in a trip to Colchester to have an enormous and delicious roast lunch at Andrew’s parents’ place. It certainly brought back memories – I used to go back every Sunday with Andrew when I lived there and we’d gorge ourselves on the amazing food then lie on the couches all afternoon.

Three Yorkshire puddings each!

We sat in the sun after lunch and played with Ferris, the family dog. It was just so nice. If I could be guaranteed weather, food and (most of all) company this good every weekend I’d leave Australia in a second. I love a warm day and a cold night. It’s just a shame there’s so few of them here.

We left Luke at his uncle Mark’s place – coincidentally Mark lives about 5 minutes away from Andrew’s parents – and drove back to Cambridge. A quiet evening watching ‘Bridesmaids’ with Jen and Andrew before a relatively early night in preparation for the big drive the next day.