Pheasants and Robins

by Miss Penny Black

Today I took a bus to Dubwath, which is on the west side of Bassenthwaite Lake, thinking I would do some walking around there. I’d seen the gently-rounded hills from the bus on my trip to Cockermouth.

The bus stop I alighted at was over the road from the train station cafe that I had booked for Luke, Pete, Lea, Sue, Mark and I in May. I’d seen it online and booked it but had no idea what it was like so it seemed like a good idea to go have a look and see if I’d made a terrible mistake.

I had coffee at the cafe, in one of their railway cars.

I used their bathroom, outside of which was a bookshelf and I think one of the books was about me!

I’ve been practicing my banter so much I think I’m definitely at an advanced level now.

Then I took a walk around the nature reserve over the road. It was a boardwalk over boggy ground. I took another photo to add to my collection of terrible quality photos of birds. I think it’s a wren but I’m happy to be corrected.

I know it was a bird, but this photo is so bad it could be a weird potato.

I had a look in the bird hide, where there was a whiteboard to record wildlife sightings.

Exciting stuff! I then had a chat to a man who told me about the African swallows (unladen) that had just started arriving and described their call to me and just as he did, one of them did their call. It was very fortuitous.

Then I took a walk up the nearest fell. It was a stunning day and the views were tremendous. The walk wasn’t super difficult but from the top I could see all the way to Scotland, the Isle of Man and I think I could see Northern Ireland too. I’m not going to post many photos because I think it would be an ideal walk to do with everyone before our tea at the train (weather permitting). Some of the walk was a corpse road, an ancient track along which people would carry bodies to the local church.

The amazing weather made it less creepy.

There were a few people around as the walk was very accessible. It’s the first walk I’ve been on where I’ve seen quite small children.

The way there and back from the bus stop passes the Pheasant Inn.

My favourite bird, as you may well know by now. I went in and had some lunch in their back garden area.

A very tame little robin joined me.

I can now start a collection of high quality photos of birds. Finally!

After a long rest and soak in the sun, I took a photo of the hedge then returned down the road to the bus shelter.

The bus shelter was of a much higher standard than most, and a nice place to wait out of the rain.

I felt like I’d had a medium-effort day but my watch said I’d climbed 59 storeys. There certainly were a lot of ups and downs and I could feel it in my calves.

I got back to the B&B to find all my washing done – my hosts had asked if there was anything they could do to make up for the lock incident. The only thing I really wanted was clean clothes, so that was easy!

All my clothes are pictured except for the set I was wearing. I have attained my badge in ultralight packing!

I’ve also done a book swap with one of the owners here, since I finished the Matt Haig novel last night and there’s no reason to hold onto it. It’s the first book I’ve finished on the trip. I think writing the blog and listening to podcasts has been my main entertainment. Luke asked me what I do in the evenings and, aside from washing my pair of socks and underwear from that day, that’s about it.

I’ve been having trouble replying to people’s messages on the blog but thank you to everyone who has left comments and kind words, I’ve really appreciated them! Deb asked what I think of walking poles. As I was on the bus home I tried to think of ten reasons why I recommend them.

1. Better balance (four legs are better than two!)

2. They help me hoist myself up higher more easily.

3. They help me let myself down easier from high steps – they are great for relieving pressure on joints.

4. I can prod damp patches to see if they are deep or shallow and get across wide puddles more easily.

5. They are good for lifting spiky plants away from my legs.

6. They give me peace of mind. Charmaine broke her ankle and couldn’t come, she said if she’d had her poles she probably would’ve been more stable and not fallen. I’m not taking any risks I can easily avoid!

7. Numerous times I’ve gone out without them and regretted it but never regretted taking them!

8. I’ve had a couple of people say to me over the years that they think poles are for elderly people, so I like to use them because I’m not, so I’m normalising them for middle-aged people;-).

9. They do take weight off your legs so you get more of a workout for your arms and can walk further in comfort.

10. This is one of the things I notice almost immediately if I don’t use them; my hands feel slightly swollen when I walk briskly with them hanging by my side so I have to hold my backpack straps to alleviate the sensation. With poles, my hands are elevated enough to avoid this sensation.

I don’t use them on city streets or anything, but out in the countryside, particularly going places I haven’t been before, they make it possible for me to go further, faster and more confidently. So I say grab yourself a pair!

22Apr2023

Dalemain Marmalade Festival

by Miss Penny Black

The bus I caught from Keswick did not go to Dalemain Hall, where the marmalade festival was being held. Instead it stopped in Stainton, which I had also wanted to visit because Jess (one of my dearest friends) Stainton’s family have connections to the place.

The view from the bus was almost completely obscured by condensation but I kept track of the journey using my OS map app and made sure I got off at the right stop. Isn’t technology wonderful?

All bus journeys are £2 at the moment, but I needed coins so I went into Booths before I set off and bought some jubes. I ate them on the bus and they reminded me of Mum, who always used to buy us a bag of jubes to share on long road trips. This was not a long trip but, somehow, they were all gone by the end anyway.

Stainton was a very small village, and on the map it looked like a very short walk up one street, then through a strip of wood and then over a field to get to the site. In fact it looked so simple I didn’t even take my walking poles (insert ominous music).

I took a few photos in the village. I particularly liked this house, which looked very Jane Austin-y. I could just imagine the family from Pride and Prejudice bursting out of the front door in a flurry of petticoats and lace.

Just before I got to the top of the hill I saw a pile of broken white ceramic in a pile on the kerb and when I got closer I noticed some wag had written on it.

I’d love to have been there when the person, who I assume just happened to have a marker handy, stopped to write on it. Or maybe they had to go get a pen and come back?

Anyhow, up the cute steps and through the tiny gate, I felt like I was climbing into someone’s yard, possibly a hobbit’s.

Next I had to walk through a thicket of wild raspberry canes.

Then across a field with a tiny stone hut.

Before entering a very other-worldly wood of bare trees and vibrantly green wild garlic.

Stunning! It smelled like garlic too.

Also, it was very muddy and steep. I slowly clambered down some wet and mossy steps and cautiously negotiated the muddy leaves, wishing all the while I had brought my walking poles (see? Foreshadowed!) . I am taking no risks when it comes to hurting myself on this holiday, but I creep along, clutching at trees and praying no one comes by to laugh at me.

After the woods another stile with a little dog hole, then across a field to the festival.

It was raining a bit and I’m pretty sure I was the only one who walked there as the car park was full and everyone was over 60.

There was gin tasting, orange juice drinking, bell ringing and tea sampling.

And marmalade!

I went into the first room and got chatting (if this blog was a drinking game and you had to drink every time I mentioned chatting to a stranger you’d have cirrhosis of the liver by now) to a couple of ladies who had entered the competition. One of them kindly let me take a photo of her certificates.

There were lots of categories and over 1000 entries.

Some were presented in a very fancy way, some looked very unusual.

There were a large number of entries from Japan and a lot of Japanese people at the festival. In one section they had a table to taste some marmalade and I went for one of the more unusual ones.

There was even marmalade with chocolate in it.

Note that it’s from the Octogenarian category. When you live that long you probably figure what the heck.

There were rooms and rooms and rooms of marmalade. Also other rooms of fancy old stuff because this is an historic house.

I considered buying a jar of marmalade but then though no, that was stupid, I still have half the jar of marmalade Rowan made me and it’s not like I’ve suddenly become a connoisseur. also the ladies with the certificates said a good marmalade should be chunky and Rowan’s is very chunky (the chunks are called ‘weeds’ so weedy marmalade is good. Who knows, I might have a champion marmalade in my possession already!

I think I was most intrigued by the clear marmalade (although one lady insisted it should be called jelly instead) and maybe I’ll have a go at making that myself one day.

How can it win? It’s not even marmalade!

After a wander around I headed back, spotting a female pheasant in the field.

Back through the woods.

Back through the fields, the raspberries and over the wall. I did see something unusual in the field – yellow snails.

I took a few more photos in Stainton for Jess.

I had half an hour until the bus so I stopped in at the pub for a half of cider. The hotel was established in 1721!

I had a little chat about walking and travel with some other walkers and nearly missed the bus back! I had to run a couple of blocks and only just made it, much to the amusement of the driver.

When I got back to Keswick I stopped for lunch at the cafe again. Today it was curried butternut squash. Again, delicious.

While I ate I had a leaf through a book that was on the shelf next to me. It was about mail art – creating beautiful tiny artworks to send through the post. I found it quite inspiring, so I’m keeping all my tickets and bits of paper to make into something creative to send to someone at home.

Right now I’m back at West View, sitting in bed and contemplating where go for dinner. I’ve done almost nothing today (compared to other days) but I feel very tired. No harm in an early night! I’ve seen a fell I’d like to climb not too far away, so if the weather clears a bit tomorrow I’ll do that, otherwise I’ll get started on my mail art!

22Apr2023

Locked Out!

by Miss Penny Black

Well, today started as expected, rain outside the window and a delicious breakfast inside. The West View has one communal table in their breakfast room, which I find quite charming – something I haven’t seen before.

The hosts here (Heather and Craig) are very friendly and welcoming, they took over the business from Heather’s parents, who are currently visiting here too.

I met a couple over breakfast who were from Nottingham and had planned to hike up Skiddaw today but the wife wasn’t too sure. I told them about my plans to go to the Marmalade Festival and Dalemain and they recommended looking for marmalades made of fruit other than oranges.

I went back up to my room to get my raincoat and disaster had struck! Well, maybe not disaster, closer to a minor inconvenience, but the door wouldn’t open. Craig tried, Heather tried, Heather’s dad tried, but no.

A locksmith was called and everyone was very apologetic but I didn’t mind at all. I sat in the lounge and updated the blog and enjoyed the rainy view.

They had planned to call a friend of theirs, Kerry, a retired locksmith with several famous spaniels. Apparently during lockdown Kerry had suffered from depression, so he had bought his original spaniel, Max, and started a Facebook page where he shared videos of their walks around Keswick.

The page became extremely popular and the dogs became famous, being on tv and meeting William and Kate.

I did all this reading (and writing) while waiting for the locksmith, who did not end up being Kerry and his famous dogs (to be honest, he probably wouldn’t have brought them with him anyway), but the new locksmith, who was nice and had to change the entire lock mechanism and carve a bigger hole in the door. I left while work was underway!

I had a festival to get to! I donned my coat and headed to the bus stop, where everyone was waiting in an orderly queue in the rain.

And now I’m on the bus! With the broken down bus yesterday and the locked door today, I’m wondering if I should be superstitious and look out for inconvenience number three?

22Apr2023

Cockermouth

by Miss Penny Black

Despite the bus breakdown, the ride to Cockermouth was stunning, with mountain, lake and forest views along the way.

I did find a big mural with the history of the place. The town has been around for over 1000 years, which is pretty incredible!

Cockermouth is an ancient town, the first written record of it is almost 1000 years ago so it’s probably been around even longer. Apart from the castle it doesn’t look very old though and unfortunately the castle is a private home.

I walked around the Main Street and saw a new history mural.

There was an historical walking route so I decided to follow that around the town.

I noticed one of those historical plaques above a doorway.

If you notice this notice you’ll notice this notice is not worth noticing.

Somehow I crossed the wrong bridge and ended up on the other side of the river.

Cockermouth is most famous (to me, anyway) for being the home of William Wordsworth. I thought it was peak daffodil season because there were white daffodils everywhere, which felt like an odd choice, considering the famous poem is about a host of yellow daffodils. A lady I met on my detour told me that I’d missed the yellow ones by a couple of weeks.

We talked about how many times her house has flooded since she moved here from the south (twice) as she lives by the river. We also talked about how small towns like this are being affected by things like Airbnb, online shopping and younger people moving away. It’s the same story everywhere, really. The towns that are thriving are too expensive for locals and the smaller quiet places feel dead because the houses are empty except on weekends.

We also talked about the largest building on the river, the brewery, which was now for sale. The locals want a museum but it all depends on who buys it.

I returned to the trail, which took me through the main courtyard of the brewery.

A man saw me taking photos and jokingly asked if I’d like to buy it and I said I was just seeing how much I had on me. He said if I had three quarters of a million pounds it could be mine! Well, I said I’d have to ask my husband but why not?

Next was around the castle wall to have a peek through the bars, then down some back lanes. I quite like the name of this pub.

Next was the churchyard.

It’s always worth pushing on a church door, just in case you can get in and have a look. The stained glass looked like it might be worth a view from the correct side.

Very nice! But I think my favourite part was where it looked like they had the local primary school kids do a project on the church then put the beet one on display.

The buildings in Cockermouth are quite brightly coloured, which is interesting (well, to me!).

It was a nice day for a wander about. The little blister on my toe is getting better but I’d like it to be gone by the time I get to Spain so I’m having a couple of easy days. Plus it’s supposed to rain tomorrow.

The last thing I did before I caught the bus back was have a chocolate eclair from a very nice bakery. I sat in the sun at the bus stop with an older lady and got chatting about chocolate eclairs and the weather and the buses and she said ‘You look very familiar,’ and I replied that there was no chance of her seeing me before as I’d never been to Cockermouth. Then we worked out that she had been on the bus that had picked me up from the broken down bus earlier that day.

When the bus arrived I once again got the front seat at the top (woo hoo!) and, since it was a different numbered bus it went back along the other side of the lake and I got to see the train cafe where Luke and his family and I have booked for an afternoon tea when we come back to the area in late May.

Before returning to the campsite I went back to Mrs F’s Cafe for some lunch. Pea and mint soup.

I asked what soup would be on tomorrow – curries butternut squash. I can’t wait!

Back to the campsite to enjoy the sun. The wind that had been predicted wasn’t affecting my little spot but, with two days of rain predicted, I decided to pack up and book a bed and breakfast.

Enjoying the view for the last time (this trip).

These people take their dogs EVERYWHERE!

As I was rolling up my gear another camper arrived, Chris, who was doing the Cumbria Way so we had quite a long talk. I had some time to fill before the 4pm check in at the B&B and it was nice standing in the sun.

The bed and breakfast was only about 600 metres from the entrance to the campsite – Keswick isn’t very big, but I haven’t stayed in this area before, close to the lake park near the theatre (for anyone who knows the place). Also about 100 steps from The Wainwright, one of the best pubs in town.

I had a lovely dinner of steak and ale pie and read my book. A lady at another table asked me what I was reading so we talked about that.

She was there with her mum and the two of them looked like they were having a whale of a time, like a two person hen’s party, laughing at everything.

I returned to hop into bed reasonably early and it’s amazing how even just one night of camping can make getting into a real bed seem like one of life’s great pleasures!

Someone’s sticker collection in a shop window.

21Apr2023

A Day Trip To Cockermouth (pt 1)

by Miss Penny Black

Despite, or perhaps because of, the beautiful day and clear skies, I woke up at 4am with a frozen face and cold patches all over. It’s hard, when just a couple of spots on you are cold, to get out of the sleeping bag knowing that the rest of you is going to be temporarily much colder. However I knew that the backpacker room (with a table, a couple of sinks and a microwave) was going to be a more pleasant place to spend a couple of hours so I crawled out of my tent and took my sleeping bag and watched TikTok videos for two hours.

I think my sleeping bag has lost some loft over the past few years, and with the weather getting colder overnight for the next few nights I don’t think camping will be wise.

Eventually Booths, and their excellent cafe, were open. I loitered over my breakfast, deciding what to do.

I might’ve bought myself a little souvenir.

I decided to book a bed and breakfast for two nights and spend the morning in Cockermouth, an historic town nearby. The bus goes around Bassenthwaite (the only body of water actually called a lake in the Lake District) and I wanted to have a look since I’d booked an afternoon tea for our family trip there in a few week’s time.

I jumped on an X4 bus (all local tickets are £2 each for the next three months) and got the top floor front seat. Jackpot!

Well, not quite a jackpot in the end. The bus broke down so now I’m sitting on a bus with 45 minutes to wait until the next one comes along. Oh well! At least the view’s not bad and I’m in no hurry.