Raymond Island

Every year we catch up with Luke’s family (parents Lea and Pete, sister Erin and her partner Brendan and their three girls) and all go on holiday together somewhere in Victoria. This year our trip was to Raymond Island, which sits just off the coast of Paynesville in south-eastern Victoria. It’s about 3 hour’s drive from Melbourne through the very green Gippsland countryside. Luke’s family all came from Albury, so they drove over the mountains and Brendan got car sick. I’m sure he’ll appreciate me mentioning this in the first paragraph.

Raymond Island is in the Gippsland Lake system. Ninety Mile beach runs along a strip of land on the ocean front, which keeps the waters of the lakes much calmer.

Unusually, despite it being only about 200 metres from the mainland, Raymond Island is accessible only by ferry. The ferry only takes five minutes but if you’re outside the continuous service hours, sometimes you have to wait about half an hour for it to return. Foot traffic is free on the ferry but cars are $14 return.

We are staying about 2km from the ferry port on Western Boulevard.

The ferry crosses where it says ‘Raymond Island’ on the map.

Our house sits right next to the power pole which brings all the power to every house on the island. I probably wouldn’t have even been aware of this fact if we hadn’t arrived to discover the whole island was out of power thanks to a large catamaran catching the power line and breaking the connection.

The power pole was slightly bent by the accident and now has to be removed.

For the first day we avidly watched all the workmen come and go and talked to locals about the progress. The power came back about 7pm on the second day. Luckily we had a bbq, the hot water was heated by gas, we had a log fire and the caretaker brought us a bag of candles. As Lea said, it only makes the holiday more memorable!

Luke and I drove down on Monday and stopped at the Morwell Top Pub for lunch. I mainly wanted to write this down because the lunch was really good and if we come this way again we would definitely break the trip there.

We made it to the island by 4pm and caught the ferry over. The island has no shops or really much to do, but it is well-known for its resident koalas!

There are supposed to be over 200 but we didn’t see any on our arrival.

The house we are staying in was booked by me through Stayz. It is two storeys and has all the kitchen and lounge etc on the top floor to make the most of the views.

Erin, Brendan and the girls are in the downstairs space where there is a queen sized bed and a room with three sets of bunks. Lea, Pete, Luke and myself are sleeping upstairs, which has worked out well with the girls waking at the crack of dawn each day. I spent last week in Orange while Mum was in the Base Hospital recovering from her hip replacement, so this has been a good chance to catch up on some sleep after staying in her hospital room for three nights.

The view from the front of the house

The weather the first full day we were here was very windy but it was pretty still from then on and we’ve been out walking lots and gone over to Paynesville on the ferry for coffee.

We also walked the koala trail and saw lots of koalas!

They can be hard to spot.

Along the koala walk was a kookaburra sitting very still and watching all the people go by.

If you’ve never heard a kookaburra’s call, search for it online and have a listen, they are very unusual!

There is a house that hires Surrey bikes to travel along the koala trail. Erin, Brendan and the girls tried them out.

Rather than slog around on heavy bikes, Lea, Pete, Luke and I went to the Metung Hot Springs, with lunch at the Metung Pub on our way there.

I hadn’t even heard of Metung before, but it’s a very posh little hamlet on the water and the pub had a lovely view over all the yachts. We arrived to find the place pretty booked out, but the waiter said a party of four was very late so he gave us their table right by the window.

I couldn’t say no to fish and chips with a view like this.

Next were the hot springs. The Metung ones are part of the same chain as the more established Mornington Peninsula Hot Springs. The ones in Metung are only two years old so they don’t have as many pools. We were lucky in our timing as there weren’t many people there so we got to sit in the hottest pools – individual barrels – that overlooked the lakes.

The barrels sit half under the decking, there’s actually lots of leg room.

The time limit for the barrels was ten minutes, so we got in and out a few times and moved to a larger and cooler barrel pool and a shallow ‘stargazing’ pool, which was sloped so you could lie back and look up.

We spoke to a staff member who said many more pools were planned and it certainly felt like they needed more, the capacity of the place wouldn’t be huge right now. I’d like to come back in a few years and see it when it has expanded.

Seats overlooking the water
We hired big fluffy robes.

My main tip would be to wear sandals in, don’t leave them at the lockers. I left mine and some of the paths were pretty sharp gravel.

The springs are about 50 minutes from Raymond Island by road.

One morning Luke and I took a drive across to the back of the island to Gravelly Beach, which is much more pebbly than gravelly. It was pretty much empty and the water was almost completely still. We could see tiny fish swimming about and the beach was covered in tiny shells.

There was quite a bit of seaweed but also some patches that were clearer. Everyone else went to the beach later than us when the wind had picked up some more. That’s the problem with the seaside – so often the lovely weather is chilled by the winds. The water temperature was around 13 degrees, so far too cold to be getting in anyway, although the girls have wetsuits so they have managed it.

On our last afternoon on the island we all went down to the little beach on the far end of Western Boulevard, about 500 metres from our house. Brendan played beach cricket with Evie and Lola, while Thea hid from the curious black swans.

Looks tropical until you feel the water temperature
All the animals on the island were very friendly… too friendly for some!

On the final morning Luke and I packed the car and then met everyone else at the ferry to go over to Ginny’s Cafe, which we’d all been to multiple times by then.

I like being in a place long enough to go back to the good places repeatedly. We also had dinner at the Old Pub one night, which wasn’t fancy but the food was fine.

Last thing to do was get a stranger to take a photo of us in front of the ferry before heading home.

Hopefully we’ll be back one day and when we do the weather will be just as good! As we drove out of Paynesville the first few drops of rain started falling, as if to emphasise our return to everyday life. From here Lea and Pete are visiting family, Erin and Brendan et al are heading to Wilson’s Prom then back to Lakes Entrance to spend time with Brendan’s family.

The duck family we watched from the balcony
A family of magpies kept an eye on the food situation on our balcony.

Altogether a very successful holiday!

Ambleside Day 2: Family Reunited!

After a fabulous sleep in a king-sized bed, Luke and I awoke ready to enjoy the wonders of the Lake District and to catch the bus to Windermere to meet Luke’s parents, Lea and Pete, at the Windermere train station.

The smiles are a lie. It was freezing and I was deeply regretted not bringing my coat.

We caught the open-topped bus from Ambleside to Windermere and had a wander around Booths while we waited. It is a large and fancy supermarket where everything looks perfect and fresh and the labels are all very English and cute, it’s a bit like walking around an art gallery. Also there are no decent supermarkets in Ambleside so we picked out a few things to buy later before we caught the bus back.

Close to the time the train arrived, we went to the station, which is right next door to the supermarket. Precisely on time, the train pulled in.

I had several potential plans for the afternoon and we settled on the following:

Brunch at a cute cafe.
Full English!
We saw a huge dog in the street.

Then up to Orrest Head, one of the best bang-for-buck walks in the area and it starts right by the train station.

A lovely leafy walk.
Not too many stairs.
Beautiful green views along the way.
The view from the top was fantastic but is hard to show in a photo, so here’s one of us instead:-)
On the way down we found the Gruffalo! We also saw some fat native bumblebees and robins bobbing around the undergrowth.

Then a tour of Booths to buy supplies..

Examining the beer selection.

Then onto the bus to Ambleside!

Followed by relaxing in our lovely apartment, eating cheese, drinking wine and sharing travel stories.

Our flat is up those steps.

In the evening we took a short walked to bridge house, which had already featured in the blog at least once, many years ago. It is the most photographed building in the Lake District and used to house a family with six children. It was built across the beck to avoid land taxes.

We had a drink outside one of the pubs then bought some pizzas from the little local supermarket to heat up at home. We were all in bed by 10!

Lamai Beach

I am writing this from home, having discovered that the last two posts I wrote about Lamai (our last stop) have disappeared. This means that several paragraphs of me complaining about Justin Bieber on high (and I mean HIGH) rotation in every hotel, restaurant and bar in Thailand will just have to be done without – sad, I know. It honestly seemed as though some governing body in Thailand had issued the same 10 track CD to every likely establishment in the country and by the end of our three weeks I thought seriously about sticking a fork in my ears.

Lamai Beach

Audio-torture aside, we had a nice time during our last week. Lamai is a beach just south of the more famous Chaweng Beach, which runs down the eastern side of Koh Samui. This was our third trip to the island and we had decided to try Lamai as it seemed a bit quieter – the parade of hawkers, spherical and sunburned eurotrash, and whizzing jet skis of course has it’s charms (in terms of cautionary tales, perhaps) but we’d heard good things about Lamai.

Lovely lush tropical gardens in our resort.

We definitely experienced quiet. In the evenings the beach was almost deserted as it was the low season and some of the bars and restaurants were completely closed. Despite this, our resort (The Pavilion) was at least half full and there were families and groups out on the beach throughout the day. Only one jet ski at a time seemed to be in operation too, so that was also something.

Lamai main street.

A big sign on the beach warned that it was jellyfish season so I did get in the sea a couple of times but tried to keep Luke between myself and the open water.

On our second last night I made the mistake of looking up the kinds of jellyfish and related incidents to be found locally and scared myself out of going back in. Fortunately the hotel pool was perfectly fine – although Luke wasn’t happy that it had not been heated to bath temperatures.

We ate out every night and enjoyed a great number of 70-140 baht cocktails. If you’re heading to the area we highly recommend Pik’s Bar. They have a list of 140 cocktails and they’re all the equivalent of $3 AUD each.

Pik’s Bar

Lea decided Pina Coladas were the best thing since sliced bread and after her first we barely saw her without one in her hand, even at breakfast! Just kidding, of course. We didn’t usually start drinking until we’d spent at least 8 hours reading books on our sun loungers.

Our only activity, apart from eating, swimming, reading, and drinking, was watching the local gang of dogs wrestle each other up and down the beach. A form of entertainment familiar to everyone who has ever been to the coast of Thailand.

We became quite familiar with the pack and one morning I found one of them (who looked a bit like our old dog Penny) asleep on the walkway right outside our room. After that I bought a little packet of dog treats from the 7-11 and handed them out whenever they came near.

We did find a few really lovely places to eat in Lamai, one of which wasn’t Thai (all the Thai places are excellent, mind you) called Emporio Caffè.

The proprietor and chef was an Italian fellow from Rome who made the pasta by hand and shared some of his grappa and limoncello with us. The pasta was outstanding and so of course we went back two nights later. Although it was a very simple cafe it had the typical frescos. If you find yourself in Lamai be sure to go!

Luke and I left Samui on a very early flight and spent a night at the Novotel in Bangkok before a daytime flight back to Melbourne. I ended up with a headache from watching three movies and the entire available catalogue of Big Bang Theory (it’s the show I watch when there’s nothing better to watch) and disembarked at about 8:30pm to find Melbourne airport the busiest we’d ever seen it.

The lady managing the extensive Sky Bus queue told the people in line that the trouble was that the Cox Plate (a prestigious horse race), Pax (a games convention) and a Taylor Swift concert were all happening on the same weekend.

Once we got into the city we discovered that in fact the Taylor Swift concert had just emptied out from the stadium beside the station and there were crowds five deep to get onto the trains. We ended up standing up for the 50 minutes it took to get home and then walked the last kilometre. The guy at the local kebab stand spied us walking past (this was at almost midnight) and asked Luke if we were going hiking.

Arriving home was a bit weird. Last time we’d come back we’d had a house full of people and Penny to greet us. This time it was more like letting ourselves into another Airbnb. Luke had paid for professional cleaners to go through the house before we returned and they’d cleaned some things well – and some things not so well. A lot of our belongings were in boxes as friends had lived in the house while we’d been gone.

We lay down on a mattress in the spare room, turned out the light, and agreed solemnly that really, there’s no place like home.

Pik’s Bar