A Big Belfast Weekend

For our final weekend in Belfast we did a lot of things! First up was seeing The Prodigy. I’ll be honest, I’m not usually one for going to shows like this where there’s a lot of standing around, queues for everything and apocalyptic toilet situations. However Luke was keen to go and it was a show that would be over by 11pm – a big draw for most over 40s and particularly for me, who is almost 50.

The forecast was for some rain so we (Luke, Peter, Ciara (Peter’s sister), Ash, Danny and I) took brightly coloured ponchos in little plastic balls but I also decided to take my proper raincoat. It’s such a hard decision, whether to take a coat to an event. If it doesn’t rain I’ll have to hold it all night, but if it rains and I get wet through I’ll be miserable and cold. I did wear it all evening through some light showers so I was glad I’d taken it.

I’ve always liked The Prodigy, even though almost all their music is quite angry, punk-electronic shouty kind of stuff that I wouldn’t normally listen to. Prior to the show I thought I’d only recognise two or three songs. I ended up knowing almost all of them and the ones I didn’t know I really liked. We stood fairly far back from the stage but everyone around us was dancing and having a great time.

Adding to the enjoyment of the evening, Danny had booked taxis to take us there and then pick us up outside, so the whole thing was very seamless and smooth. Normally getting home from big events is stressful with the crowds and transport but it was all so easy.

We ended up staying up until the small hours, talking and cuddling Freddie. A brilliant evening all round!

The next day (Saturday) we did absolutely nothing but sit around watching TV and chatting, as one does after a big night out. On Sunday Danny drove Peter, Luke and I to Mount Stewart, a manor house with extensive gardens.

There was a car show out the front with some very cute and stylish old vehicles. Luke and I paid for entry to the house and the ground floor was open.

After learning so much about Irish history on this trip, it’s hard for me to enjoy places like this in an uncomplicated way. Yes, I love the architecture and find things interesting, but the people who entertained their highbrow friends here so they could ‘get away from it all and relax’ in a 22 bedroom, 24,000 acre estate, were doing it while catholic families only miles away were living in squalor because the government, that these people were part of, treated them like second class citizens. Not all that different from Australian history, I guess – almost all the beautiful old buildings in Melbourne were funded by gold that was gained from the destruction of native lands and removal of indigenous people.

Still, I did like the scope of their lounge room. It managed to be enormous and yet cosy and it was interesting to think about the points made in Watching the English, the book I’ve been reading throughout my trip. The author says that at the very top and bottom of the British class ladder, people will have mismatched and old furniture. The poor aspire to matching lounge suites but the rich inherit antiques and don’t want their furniture to match, for fear of looking like new money or middle class. Very few pieces matched in this room so these people must’ve been very rich!

Luke liked these lettuce-shaped dishes where the handles were formed by the curl of the leaves.

The gardens were slightly derelict but had quite a Secret Garden feel. There was a walled rose garden with some lovely specimens.

Beautiful. Also I’m so glad I got a new phone before I left, how lovely is the soft focus!

We had a shower then sun for five minute intervals and on our 30 minute walk I think I took off my jacket then put it back on at least ten times.

I’ll only show you the sunny photos though, to give the impression we had perfect weather.

Cygnets!

The landscapes park had lots of different types of landscapes and copses of different types of trees.

After a drink at a seaside inn we dropped Freddie off home. We then headed to a venue that was usually quiet on a Sunday afternoon so we could try Belfast’s famous LASA spice bag (famous because Lizzo had recently taken to social media to complain about missing out on trying one as they were closed after her show).

However things were not as we had anticipated – a DJ was playing extremely loud music indoors and LASA, one of the food trucks lining the walls, was giving away free servings of their spice bags. Unfortunately whoever was making them had doused them in chilli flakes so we left it unfinished and moved outside.

I wish I could post a video, it was quite deafening for mid afternoon on a Sunday. There were family groups sitting around looking a bit shell shocked.
Apparently it wasn’t their normal fare – as you can see, pretty plain.

Peter got us all some slices of excellent NY-style pizza, which were much more satisfying.

The whole time we were outside there was a man with a dog and the dog was standing either on the table or trying to get to our table to get our food. I don’t think I’ve ever seen a public eating place that allows dogs on tables.

A bright rainbow came out over the rooftops.

We spent the rest of the evening at different bars. Being a Sunday, it wasn’t too busy.

This pub had live music and way too many things that required dusting.
Beer with a slice of orange?
Possibly the oldest pub in Belfast.
So many flowers decorating the pubs and bars.
‘Baby Guinness’ – Tia Maria with Baileys

But all good things must come to an end, and on Monday morning Danny drove Luke and I to the airport.

Goodbye Belfast!

If one picture encapsulates our meteorological experience it’s this one.

Danny and I made vague plans to do another walking trip, possibly around The Ulster Way, which is in Northern Ireland. That might be something we do next time, who knows?

A Day In Innsbruck

We enjoyed a bit of a lie-in this morning, with no rush to get on the bikes. Having two nights in one place feels like a luxury after a week of packing every morning. We ended up sitting with Jane and Rutherford for breakfast and making plans to have dinner together before we went our separate ways tomorrow.

Luke and I didn’t have set plans so we walked towards the old town along the river and our first stop was a charity shop that was selling a wide range of items including second hand dirndls, which I’ve not seen anywhere else before.

The quality of the clothing was excellent and Luke ended up buying a jacket* and I was slightly annoyed to find an entire display of just the thing I had looked for in London:

Champagne glasses! Lea likes to drink her sparkling wine out of a nice glass and our Camden flat only had three (not very nice) wine glasses and not one flute, so every time I passed an op shop I looked for a cheap one, to no avail. Apparently they were all in Innsbruck.

Then we walked around the streets and quickly found the main** attraction, the golden roof. Don’t ask me why it’s so famous, it’s so boring I couldn’t be bothered even looking up why it’s so well known.

Here’s a slightly closer photo using a technique I saw on instagram and was able to use thanks to the first real rain of my trip causing some puddles to form. Now I get a photo with TWO golden roofs. What could be more thrilling than that?

We walked around the main mall and back streets of the old town, which were charming.

The buildings were lovely colours and some were very ornate.

Traditional painting of the wine making process.
A shop devoted to ham.
A very cute ice cream store.

The old part of town was only about six streets but they had a lot of interesting shops. One sold the most elaborate glasses I’ve ever seen.
This is not a great photo but you get a bit of an idea.

We stopped at a cafe with large umbrellas to have a drink as the rain started, and watch all the very fashionably dresses people go by. Not quite as fancy as Zürich but lots of interesting styles.

The rain and sun alternated every half hour.

More walking through the side streets and looking in some of the shops.

*this is the jacket he bought

We moved to the riverside and had some lunch – nachos with bbq sauce and some garnish that I think is tiny tomatoes but I’m really not sure!

They weren’t at all spicy… but if anyone knows for sure please tell me!

After another hot chocolate (they really are very fluffy and delicious!) we headed back to the hotel for an undeserved rest.

More puddle reflections!

On the way home we walked through a local market hall that had local vendors with stalls. We bought a bag of fried apple for the train trip tomorrow.

More marvellous looking strawberries.

White asparagus is a big thing here at the moment.

During our walk around town we had found a place for dinner, the Stiftskeller Inn. It had a very ‘Munich beer hall’ atmosphere and seemed to be quite popular.

Luke and I got there a bit early to secure a table then Jane and Rutherford arrived not long after. We had a lovely evening swapping travel stories and eating some very traditional Austrian food.

Luke had beef goulash.
I had an enormous salad covered in bacon.
Luke had Apple strudel and custard for dessert and I had icecream.

We all walked back to the hotel together and said our farewells, they are off on another section of cycling, this time to Vienna.

Tomorrow we catch the train to Hallstatt, which hopefully lives up to its postcard-perfect reputation!