One Night In Derry

Our overnight trip to Derry did not begin well, due to the uniquely confusing setup at Lanyon Place Station. We managed to miss the 10am train and had to wait an hour for the next one. Annoying, but possibly meant we missed the morning rain in Derry.

The trip to Derry is about 2 hours and as we got closer the sun came out and we hit the coastal section of the route. Lovely!

There was even a stretch of beach that looked remarkably like home.

We arrived at Derry station a bit after 2 and the station was a pleasant surprise. Very modern, clean and bright.

The station is on the opposite side of the river to the centre of town so we walked across the Peace Bridge.

We’d booked an Airbnb property but only brought a small backpack each so we were fine to carry our things with us for a few hours.

On a day like this it was a nice way to enter the city, although it was still spitting a bit… but also sunny. So Irish!

There was a nice-looking walkway along the river but we headed into the city.

Not many people around, which is always nice.

We headed into the ground floor of the building below. I was interested in the stained glass. I read later that the windows tell the story of Derry through the centuries.

There was an exhibition on the history of Derry, which I can poorly but fairly accurately summarise as: English people arrive and ruin everything and the fighting goes on forever. Luke and I talked about this a lot, not just what happened but what could’ve been done differently, what might have happened if the English had never come. Ireland is so small that it might’ve been invaded by Spain or Portugal, or how different it would be if it had been left to itself. Is there even such a thing, in history, as a nation being left to itself?

I didn’t realise the English came to completely drive out the locals in the 1600s to set up plantations, much like those in the US and the Caribbean, although I think this happened first.

Next we visited the tourist information centre and picked up a map. They had a lot of Derry Girls merch and some interactive exhibits.

The craft village was recommended to visit, it’s a series of little craft shops that sell very typical Irish stuff, some more modern things and several hairdressers. Not the highlight of our visit but it might appeal to some.

The centre of Derry is surrounded by defensive walls, the mostly recently constructed in the UK and Ireland. They’re in excellent condition and the wall around is about a mile and offers an excellent view of the inside and outside parts of the city.

Canons along the walls.

The wall walk was also surprisingly wide and the surface seemed quite new. There were sets of stairs along the way but it wasn’t a hard walk.

If I had more time I’d have looked for a walk to do in the hills around the city.

This area, Bogside, was where Bloody Sunday occurred. More on that later.

If you don’t immediately recognise these faces you need to watch Derry Girls immediately. Go do it now, I’ll wait.

After all the walking in the sun there was only one thing to do.

We stopped in at Peaddar O’Donnall’s for a drink and to listen to the old men at the end of the bar talk about what a good movie The Mighty Ducks was.

I had to photograph the place below. We didn’t eat there but I enjoyed their scattergun approach to punctuation.

Another photo of Northern Irish library architecture. It looks like a very defensible structure.

Before heading to the Airbnb we walked to the Free Derry area to have a look at the murals.

The old style, then the new below.

Our Airbnb was back over the peace bridge in the newer part of town.

After going through this door we had to let ourselves out the back door into a grim alley then down to a little apartment that was sparse but felt pretty new and was clean.

Plus they left us bread, butter and everything for tea and coffee so we were set. Back to the pub.

There were a bunch of pubs in a row so of course we went back to the same one we were at before. We had an hour to kill before dinner at Mekong, Derry’s top rated restaurant.

An unprepossessing exterior but the food was unreal. We ordered a range of smaller plates to share.

Pork neck with apple slaw bao
Vermicelli spring rolls, beef laarb balls, spicy sticky chicken wings, pork belly and glass noodle salad

The flavours were amazingly fresh and rich, with each dish having a unique taste but all tasting very Vietnamese. It was really hard to pick a favourite.

Dessert was a mandarin crème brûlée with ginger biscuit, which we used to dip in the brûlée and then crumbled over the top. I had a very sad moment at the end when I realised I’d probably never eat here again. We both agreed it was one of the top five meals we’d had on this trip.

In the morning we started with a morning walk through St Columb’s park. It was a nice big green space with just one creepy statue.

Oh no, it’s Saint Columb!
There were Columb-related statues and other things to look at in the park.

It was all lovely and green.

After a walk through town we went to the Free Derry Museum. Before entering I knew very little about Bloody Sunday but the museum was extremely informative and had artifacts from the day, footage and recordings.

If you go take a box of tissues, it’s tragic on so many levels and really makes you sympathise with the people of Derry.

On our way to the station we bought some fancy biscuits from this very instagramable shop then forgot to eat them.

We saw some fancy cars on the way.

Back over the Peace Bridge and to the station.

On the way home we got off the train at Castlerock, a little seaside town. We had a slightly underwhelming lunch at a local bar but the staff were very friendly.

Not as friendly as local character Ronnie, who wandered over as we finished eating and told us about basking sharks, how he had dropped his cornflakes on the floor that morning, and swimming in Greece. Having an extremely thick accent meant he was quite hard to understand but we concentrated very hard and seemed to make all the right noises.

We had a nice walk along the beach in the warm, windy weather and stopped to take a few photos before heading back to the station.

The trip back to Belfast was largely uneventful apart from the train running a bit late.

The weekend just gone has been very busy so this has been my most delayed post of the trip! We’ve done a few things over the weekend so I’ll to to finish everything off before leaving London. Only a couple of sleeps until we are home!

Salzburg to Belfast

I honestly think Belfast is one of Europe’s most underrated cities. I know I wouldn’t ever have come here without the lure of a friend, but every time I come there’s new things to do, amazing places to eat, new art to see and more.

This is Luke’s first visit and I’m keen to show him why I like it so much.

Belfast is a much smaller city than Melbourne but has an amazing art and music scene that, in some areas, makes it feel a lot like home.

We’re here for a week and a half and plan to visit Derry, go to the Game of Thrones studio tour and eat a lot of good local food. So goodbye Salzburg, maybe one day we’ll come back when it’s cooler and see more of the city.

Aerial view of Salzburg.
Coming into Frankfurt

We had to catch two flights to get from Salzburg to Belfast and flew with Lufthansa. The first flight was delayed but we had a big gap between the two. We had our break at Frankfurt airport, which is huge. So big the staff ride around on bicycles, which I’ve never seen at an airport before.

Fortunately we went to look for our gate with plenty of time to spare as we had to get between terminals and it was nearly a kilometre of moving walkways through a tunnel.

But it wasn’t long before we got to Belfast.

Danny picked us up, he lives less than 10 minutes from the city airport and we were very pleased the weather was cooler.

After going back to the house to pick up Ash and dropping off our bags it was out for dinner at a local place called Duad that had about five tables and a dj playing – so very Belfast.

A delicious Korean chicken burger

Then Danny took us on a short walking tour of the local area. Here’s the local library masquerading as a storage facility.

Danny took us to to C.S. Lewis Square, which had this statue below and others of creatures from his books.

I kind of imagined Aslan a bit more imposing than this.

We finished off the night with visits to a couple of bars.

I stopped taking photos and have no idea what time we got home or went to sleep, but it wasn’t too late. We did watch the clip to Kylie Minogue’s new song, ‘Padam Padam’, as Peter is a huge fan and I’d seen people talking about it on TikTok.

Somehow the woman does seem to have aged since 1990!

A Day In Innsbruck

We enjoyed a bit of a lie-in this morning, with no rush to get on the bikes. Having two nights in one place feels like a luxury after a week of packing every morning. We ended up sitting with Jane and Rutherford for breakfast and making plans to have dinner together before we went our separate ways tomorrow.

Luke and I didn’t have set plans so we walked towards the old town along the river and our first stop was a charity shop that was selling a wide range of items including second hand dirndls, which I’ve not seen anywhere else before.

The quality of the clothing was excellent and Luke ended up buying a jacket* and I was slightly annoyed to find an entire display of just the thing I had looked for in London:

Champagne glasses! Lea likes to drink her sparkling wine out of a nice glass and our Camden flat only had three (not very nice) wine glasses and not one flute, so every time I passed an op shop I looked for a cheap one, to no avail. Apparently they were all in Innsbruck.

Then we walked around the streets and quickly found the main** attraction, the golden roof. Don’t ask me why it’s so famous, it’s so boring I couldn’t be bothered even looking up why it’s so well known.

Here’s a slightly closer photo using a technique I saw on instagram and was able to use thanks to the first real rain of my trip causing some puddles to form. Now I get a photo with TWO golden roofs. What could be more thrilling than that?

We walked around the main mall and back streets of the old town, which were charming.

The buildings were lovely colours and some were very ornate.

Traditional painting of the wine making process.
A shop devoted to ham.
A very cute ice cream store.

The old part of town was only about six streets but they had a lot of interesting shops. One sold the most elaborate glasses I’ve ever seen.
This is not a great photo but you get a bit of an idea.

We stopped at a cafe with large umbrellas to have a drink as the rain started, and watch all the very fashionably dresses people go by. Not quite as fancy as Zürich but lots of interesting styles.

The rain and sun alternated every half hour.

More walking through the side streets and looking in some of the shops.

*this is the jacket he bought

We moved to the riverside and had some lunch – nachos with bbq sauce and some garnish that I think is tiny tomatoes but I’m really not sure!

They weren’t at all spicy… but if anyone knows for sure please tell me!

After another hot chocolate (they really are very fluffy and delicious!) we headed back to the hotel for an undeserved rest.

More puddle reflections!

On the way home we walked through a local market hall that had local vendors with stalls. We bought a bag of fried apple for the train trip tomorrow.

More marvellous looking strawberries.

White asparagus is a big thing here at the moment.

During our walk around town we had found a place for dinner, the Stiftskeller Inn. It had a very ‘Munich beer hall’ atmosphere and seemed to be quite popular.

Luke and I got there a bit early to secure a table then Jane and Rutherford arrived not long after. We had a lovely evening swapping travel stories and eating some very traditional Austrian food.

Luke had beef goulash.
I had an enormous salad covered in bacon.
Luke had Apple strudel and custard for dessert and I had icecream.

We all walked back to the hotel together and said our farewells, they are off on another section of cycling, this time to Vienna.

Tomorrow we catch the train to Hallstatt, which hopefully lives up to its postcard-perfect reputation!

Eurobike Tour: Day 6: Imst to Innsbruck

I’ve taken a lot more photos of tractors than I anticipated. I didn’t even mean to take this one, it just rolled into the shot.

Today was going to be our longest day yet (65km) and initially I’d been dreading it as the road surfaces of the first few days had been steep and gravel. However, yesterday was mostly asphalt and it seemed like the closer we got to Innsbruck, the better the road would be. Being well stocked with medication to combat itchy eyes made me feel more confident too. If I can be indelicate, the previous day had also not been quite as torturous in the seat, so that was a bonus too.

Breakfast buffet

After a massive ten hours of sleep (for me anyway) we got down to breakfast at about 7am. Breakfast at this hotel started at 6:30am, the previous hotel was 8am. There really should be a standardisation of breakfast hours in hotels and when I am elected president of the world it will be one of my first ten new laws*.

Jane and Rutherford sat next to us at breakfast and I am proud to say I won the wordle challenge for the day (fastest *and* fewest guesses). I forgot to post the photo I took of the four of us the previous day so here it is.

Right after our guardian angels pointed us to the nearest pharmacy.

This hotel had champagne on offer with the breakfast buffet but since 90% of the clientele were about to mount up for a day of cycling, I can’t imagine much of it was drunk.

Farewell, Hotel Neuner, your meals were excellent and not eye-wateringly priced.

Our hotel was right by the bike trail and so it was a matter of moments to be on our bikes and heading out of town. There were a few short, steep hills to begin with, then a lovely section of dappled forest riding.

The majority of the day was spent going between 20 and 35kph and so we made it to Innsbruck a bit before 3pm. Here’s a few sights from the trail.

Last view of Imst
We rode alongside this river most of the day.
A small herd of cows blocked the road and we looked at them for a short while until a guy on a bike came towards them from the other direction and shouted at them and pushed them out of the way. Not a tactic I would’ve tried!
The valley floor was very flat and mostly farmland.

While he loved the forest sections and some of the farmland with all its vegetation, Luke said it was the most boring day, scenery-wise. I felt it was a relief not to have a sheer drop right next to me at any point.

Luke stopped by Innsbruck airport but sadly no planes flew low overhead. Behind us was the local beach – giant pebbles and freezing cold water.

We stopped in Innsbruck to check how far away our hotel was and it just so happened to be right across the road from the point at which we’d stopped. The tour app directs you to the middle of town and we hadn’t thought about precisely where the hotel was. Lucky we checked!

The hotel is called ‘Rufi’s’ which doesn’t translate well into English. The guy at the front desk was lovely and we put away our bikes then availed ourselves of our complementary drinks.

So there you go, we finished our bike tour from St Moritz to Innsbruck. Approximately 250km across two countries. The route had been rated ‘moderate’ but we’d thought that having e-bikes would compensate for our lack of fitness or experience. Although we made it, I wouldn’t recommend this strategy to anyone else! It was more mentally draining than physically problematic for me, I wasn’t expecting it to be quite so scary – although the worst part was the detour on day 3.

In summary!

The best bits were:

The views

The weather

The public pool/spa at Zernez

The local food

The very polite and patient drivers in Austria and Switzerland

The decent route signage

The excellent roadside amenities, in particular the frequent public fountains with pure spring drinking water

The worst aspects were:

The bikes were for city riding, not gravel, the tyres were awful for the conditions

The complete lack of support from Eurobikes and the fact that ‘the natural adventure company’ was just another name for a company we’d actively been trying to avoid

The way hotels did not cater for warm nights by offering a sheet or light blanket, let alone a fan or aircon

The flies – they are everywhere, including indoors

The atrocious smell of manure for about 50% of the ride

The poor performance of the two apps and that day 5 on the app did not allow any route guidance

So, how much did it cost? The seven nights of accommodation plus breakfast, e-bike hire and bag transfers was $5,422K AUD for both of us. Most of the hotels were around $300 to $400 a night ($350×7 = $2450). We paid extra for electric bikes but I shudder to think what the trip would’ve been like without them.

Good bye and good riddance!

While it is a lot for a week’s travel, this is a very expensive part of the world and the views are tremendous. The entire route has views of snow-capped jagged mountains and fields of flowers. The most scenic part was day 4, between Ardez and Ftan. A cheaper and easier way to enjoy the sights would be to use the local bus system to get about and walk between some of the most picturesque places.

We saved a bit of money by eating large breakfasts, skipping lunch and buying most of our snacks from the supermarket.

We ate our way through several packets of these biscuits over the course of the week.

Anyhow, on to a relaxing day in Innsbruck before catching the train to Hallstatt!

* I’m having a really hard time deciding on my other nine but they will definitely include a standardisation of electrical sockets and better pillows for Europeans.

Eurobike Tour: Day 5: Ried to Imst

A covered bridge

After our usual ‘stuff ourselves to the brim’ breakfast we hit the road. I took my strongest hayfever meds and didn’t suffer too badly in the morning. At about 12pm we cycled through Landeck, a larger town than any we’d seen so far.

We cycled past Jane and Rutherford, who stopped for a chat and said they’d just been to a chemist! So I went in and bought two replacement bottles of nasal spray and two bottles of eye drops, which now brings my total quantity of hay fever meds to seven.

We stopped at a cafe for a drink which turned out to be more like a dessert – a very ice cream heavy iced chocolate and iced coffee. They came with three long wafers to scoop up the icecream. Delicious!

Heading out of Landeck was a bit of road riding, then gravel, then a lovely tarmac bike path.

Not far out of Landeck we saw this interesting ruin. Imagine living up there! You certainly wouldn’t be popular with the postman.

Lots of horses around, particularly palominos.

We stopped in a little village to refill our soft water bottles and found this curious religious statue. Is it Mary or Eve? Or is this a commentary on how all the women in the bible are either mothers or of ill repute?

A little further along we decided to stop at what looked like a charming little cafe.

It seemed small but was like the tardis as we went in.

Hundreds of seats and a dozen different shops. From the other side it was clearly a Highway service station. We ended up buying ice cream and sitting outside. Coconut for me, caramel for Luke.

The day’s ride was pretty easy compared to the previous days and, apart from a wrong turn down an extremely low and creepy (probably haunted) tunnel, we made it to our hotel without too many worries.

So many cobwebs!
No fun!

The path was a lot easier in every way and so we made pretty good time, arriving around 3pm.

Time for a drink at the restaurant.

Most of our discussion over drinks revolved around the excessive number of flies in Switzerland and Austria and the complete lack of flyscreens. No matter where you sit they are landing on your plate and no one else seems terribly bothered by them.

We ended up having dinner at 6, knudels (mac and cheese) and salad for me, cordon Bleu and chips for Luke. mine had dried caramelised onions on top, which I will have to try at home because it was a great combo.

Prices continue to become more reasonable the further we get from St Moritz

I’d like to say we went out partying but I was asleep by 7pm and didn’t wake up until after 5am. I think the relief of having enough medication to make the trip enjoyable was such a great weight of my mind I could properly relax.

Our room at the hotel was nice too, spacious with a balcony lined with purple petunias.

Roomy!
Mountain views

Poor Luke was up until 11 playing games with his headphones in.

The front of the hotel.

Tomorrow our last but longest day at 65km.