One Night In Derry

Our overnight trip to Derry did not begin well, due to the uniquely confusing setup at Lanyon Place Station. We managed to miss the 10am train and had to wait an hour for the next one. Annoying, but possibly meant we missed the morning rain in Derry.

The trip to Derry is about 2 hours and as we got closer the sun came out and we hit the coastal section of the route. Lovely!

There was even a stretch of beach that looked remarkably like home.

We arrived at Derry station a bit after 2 and the station was a pleasant surprise. Very modern, clean and bright.

The station is on the opposite side of the river to the centre of town so we walked across the Peace Bridge.

We’d booked an Airbnb property but only brought a small backpack each so we were fine to carry our things with us for a few hours.

On a day like this it was a nice way to enter the city, although it was still spitting a bit… but also sunny. So Irish!

There was a nice-looking walkway along the river but we headed into the city.

Not many people around, which is always nice.

We headed into the ground floor of the building below. I was interested in the stained glass. I read later that the windows tell the story of Derry through the centuries.

There was an exhibition on the history of Derry, which I can poorly but fairly accurately summarise as: English people arrive and ruin everything and the fighting goes on forever. Luke and I talked about this a lot, not just what happened but what could’ve been done differently, what might have happened if the English had never come. Ireland is so small that it might’ve been invaded by Spain or Portugal, or how different it would be if it had been left to itself. Is there even such a thing, in history, as a nation being left to itself?

I didn’t realise the English came to completely drive out the locals in the 1600s to set up plantations, much like those in the US and the Caribbean, although I think this happened first.

Next we visited the tourist information centre and picked up a map. They had a lot of Derry Girls merch and some interactive exhibits.

The craft village was recommended to visit, it’s a series of little craft shops that sell very typical Irish stuff, some more modern things and several hairdressers. Not the highlight of our visit but it might appeal to some.

The centre of Derry is surrounded by defensive walls, the mostly recently constructed in the UK and Ireland. They’re in excellent condition and the wall around is about a mile and offers an excellent view of the inside and outside parts of the city.

The wall walk was also surprisingly wide and the surface seemed quite new. There were sets of stairs along the way but it wasn’t a hard walk.

If I had more time I’d have looked for a walk to do in the hills around the city.

This area, Bogside, was where Bloody Sunday occurred. More on that later.

If you don’t immediately recognise these faces you need to watch Derry Girls immediately. Go do it now, I’ll wait.

After all the walking in the sun there was only one thing to do.

We stopped in at Peaddar O’Donnall’s for a drink and to listen to the old men at the end of the bar talk about what a good movie The Mighty Ducks was.

I had to photograph the place below. We didn’t eat there but I enjoyed their scattergun approach to punctuation.

Another photo of Northern Irish library architecture. It looks like a very defensible structure.

Before heading to the Airbnb we walked to the Free Derry area to have a look at the murals.

The old style, then the new below.

Our Airbnb was back over the peace bridge in the newer part of town.

After going through this door we had to let ourselves out the back door into a grim alley then down to a little apartment that was sparse but felt pretty new and was clean.

Plus they left us bread, butter and everything for tea and coffee so we were set. Back to the pub.

There were a bunch of pubs in a row so of course we went back to the same one we were at before. We had an hour to kill before dinner at Mekong, Derry’s top rated restaurant.

An unprepossessing exterior but the food was unreal. We ordered a range of smaller plates to share.

Vermicelli spring rolls, beef laarb balls, spicy sticky chicken wings, pork belly and glass noodle salad

The flavours were amazingly fresh and rich, with each dish having a unique taste but all tasting very Vietnamese. It was really hard to pick a favourite.

Dessert was a mandarin crème brûlée with ginger biscuit, which we used to dip in the brûlée and then crumbled over the top. I had a very sad moment at the end when I realised I’d probably never eat here again. We both agreed it was one of the top five meals we’d had on this trip.

In the morning we started with a morning walk through St Columb’s park. It was a nice big green space with just one creepy statue.

There were Columb-related statues and other things to look at in the park.

After a walk through town we went to the Free Derry Museum. Before entering I knew very little about Bloody Sunday but the museum was extremely informative and had artifacts from the day, footage and recordings.

If you go take a box of tissues, it’s tragic on so many levels and really makes you sympathise with the people of Derry.

On our way to the station we bought some fancy biscuits from this very instagramable shop then forgot to eat them.

We saw some fancy cars on the way.

Back over the Peace Bridge and to the station.

On the way home we got off the train at Castlerock, a little seaside town. We had a slightly underwhelming lunch at a local bar but the staff were very friendly.

Not as friendly as local character Ronnie, who wandered over as we finished eating and told us about basking sharks, how he had dropped his cornflakes on the floor that morning, and swimming in Greece. Having an extremely thick accent meant he was quite hard to understand but we concentrated very hard and seemed to make all the right noises.

We had a nice walk along the beach in the warm, windy weather and stopped to take a few photos before heading back to the station.

The trip back to Belfast was largely uneventful apart from the train running a bit late.

The weekend just gone has been very busy so this has been my most delayed post of the trip! We’ve done a few things over the weekend so I’ll to to finish everything off before leaving London. Only a couple of sleeps until we are home!

27Jun2023

Belfast: Day 5: A Black Cab Tour, Crumlin Gaol and Pizza

by Miss Penny Black

Another trip on the glider into town!

Looking for somewhere different for breakfast, I’d spotted the cafe at the linenhall library.

Very cute!

I had the granola and yes, those are choc chips. The yogurt had coconut in it, delicious!

The weather was doing its best to match the mood of the day.

Not far from the cafe we found our driver, who was named Danny because every family here names their eldest child Daniel.

As you might guess from this photo and his job, he was quite a character. He took us for a drive around the parts of Belfast related to The Troubles.

If you don’t know what The Troubles are you should google them because I’m not going to try to explain decades of religious and political conflict. Also if you haven’t heard of the problems in Northern Ireland and you’re over 30 you’re an eejit.

We went out in a black cab, which is always nice because they’re so roomy. Some things we drove past, others we got out to have a closer look at.

The company is owned by both Protestants and Catholics and so the talk is supposed to be unbiased, although I think it was pretty clear our driver was from one side. He did emphasise his desire for a continuation of the peace process and was very proud of the tour company for bringing both sides together. The mural below is a celebration of a non sectarian organisation and was sponsored by the cab company.

Below is the longest wall left from The Troubles, and still very much needed. Bits of rubble from week-old brick-throwing was in evidence.

I say black taxi, it was more a periwinkle blue.

On the other side of the fence is a catholic estate, the brick rubble explains the wire fencing over their back yards.

Danny showed us old and new style rubber bullets. They’re huge and they have killed many people, despite being used for safety reasons.

Danny gave us about fifty hour’s homework of documentary and book reading if we wanted to learn more.

Basically we learned a lot of shocking things and were feeling pretty sad and hopeless about it all so what should we do next?

Visit a gaol!

Crumlin Road Gaol is now a tourist attraction but was a pretty dire place to be interred for almost the last 150 years.

We did the walking tour, which meant following the arrows and paying attention to the many, many audio and visual presentations.

The Gaol is across the road from the old courthouse and a tunnel under the road used to join them. It was not the creepiest part of the place.

The creepiest part was the room where they hung people. I didn’t take a photo but it was a very plain room with a noose over a hole in the floor.

One of the more interesting facts was learning the origin of ‘screws’ as a nickname for the guards.

Outside were some tanks, jeeps and a helicopter on display.

The whole experience was quite sobering but it was the last of our historical activities for the day.

After the Gaol we headed to the Ulster Museum but first we needed a fortifying meal.

Pizza!

Orto pizza was a recommendation from Danny and Peter, who hadn’t been but heard it was good. The pepperoni pizza had honey on it, which counterbalanced the saltiness of the pizza very nicely.

We also got our own pizza cutters to slice the pizza. It’s a bit gimmicky but I’m sure lots of people enjoy it. Luke prefers a knife and fork when the pizza base is so thin and the toppings drip or slide when picked up.

The restaurant is directly across the road from the museum. Finally I’d get to see the finished GoT tapestry! It had been completed by an English workshop using Irish linen as the show was being aired. The final tapestry was over 80 metres in length.

We walked in and asked a member of staff where to find the tapestry. He told us it was in storage as HBO had borrowed it.

How annoying. I’ll have to wait until next time I guess!

Here’s a little picture I stole off the internet to give you a bit of an idea of the style.

We had as bit of a wander through the museum but we were both tired and decided to head back to the house.

We spent the evening declining food (too much pizza) and watching Drag Race, which was bright and shiny enough to distract us from what we’d learned during the day.

Thanks, Ru Paul!

26Jun2023

Belfast: Day 4: Game of Thrones Studio Tour

by Miss Penny Black

One of the few things we booked before arriving in Belfast was the GoT studio tour.

We caught PT into the city for breakfast first, then jumped onboard the shuttle bus with one other couple… which seemed weird. Was the place going to be almost empty?

The bus ride was about half an hour.

The weather started out fine. Things took a turn for the worse while we were inside.

At the entry there was no sign of life until we spotted a tiny group of people at the door.

We were inside very quickly and it was set up a lot like the Harry Potter studio tour. If you haven’t done it then that description won’t help you!

Basically the entry was a cafe and the gift shop. You go into an antechamber in groups for a quick talk and some footage from the show before going into the displays. It was quite good to be reminded of the main characters and scenes.

The costumes were displayed within the sets. You could get quite close and see the incredible detail.

These are wildling costumes, the people who live in the snow beyond the wall. They have real shells sewn into their clothes.

The costumes were my main area of interest and I think they were probably the best and biggest part of the tour.

The tour also includes a variety of models of sets.

I’d say the place was less than a quarter full which was great for us, we could look at everything immediately. The signs were quite small and the spotlights meant you had to stand right in front of them to read them. Possibly an incentive to pay for the audio guides?

The cafe serves themed cocktails. Red Wedding? I don’t want to remember it, let alone drink it.

They had pictures of the scenes in which the costumes featured next to each piece, which was great, but as Luke observed, they just aren’t as special when they aren’t part of the whole thing. That being said, having done some costume making, I could appreciate the detail and wished I’d been able to see the under layers and fastenings.

These moths are hand made, I remember noticing them on the show as costume decoration.

The scale of some of the props was massive!

I liked the detail in the armoury and the plaques had the story of each significant weapon within the story.

There were several interactive exhibits, including ones where they take your photo and put you in front of a background from the show then try to sell you a print of it. No thanks!

Of course the final room is the eponymous throne, made of a thousand actual swords that were created then moulded into the seat.

Exit through the gift shop! I bought a tea towel, of course.

We waited inside for the bus and it started absolutely bucketing down. We got quite damp just going the few metres to the bus.

We were going to see the GoT tapestry (done in the style of the bayeux tapestry) but the museum was shut, so we caught the glider back to Ballyhackamore at school rush time. We listened to a small boy mock his friends for vaping and telling them how they would get addicted and they denied it. Obviously they hadn’t looked around them, almost all of Belfast vapes constantly.

Luke falls asleep despite the witty banter.

Off the bus we decided to go to a local Thai restaurant and try an Irish delicacy – the spice bag. Not a very glamorous name for a not very glamorous dish.

We ate in so it wasn’t served in a bag or pizza box, but it’s basically a salad of deep fried food. In this case potato, chicken, capsicum, onion and spring onion all coated in a salt, pepper and chilli spice mix and with a massaman dipping sauce.

Apparently this was invented by Irish Chinese restaurants as a snack food. You can get Indian, Thai… I imagine the concept could be applied to any cuisine.

The food was delicious but incredibly salty.

To the pub!

Danny and Peter joined us and so did their friend, Julie-Anne and her one month old baby, who was super cute.

26Jun2023

Belfast: Day 3: A Drive Around The Ard Peninsula

by Miss Penny Black

After a lot of wine and a late night for some (everyone but me), we all had a quiet morning before Danny took us on a very scenic drive around the Ard peninsula.

But first, Luke and I took Freddie for a walk to the supermarket. He was extremely well behaved and didn’t do any of the annoying things our own dog does.

Danny, with a medium amount of interference and obstruction from Peter, cooked up an absolutely perfect breakfast.

Danny does the mushrooms with a melty cheese and marmite and they were indeed magical! I shall be giving this a try at home.

Eventually we got ourselves into the car with Danny at the helm and Peter assisting with directions. Luke and I were left to admire the rolling green landscape and blue skies.

The houses along the coast are lovely colours.

We spotted an icecream van and got out for a stretch and some photos. Lucky we captured the sky at this point because the predicted storms that Danny had pooh-poohed earlier were lurking over the horizon.

The weather was just lovely and, most importantly, not too hot.

Normally photos taken by strangers are terrible but this lady did a great job!

I thought the clouds behind the van looked a bit like icecream.

We drove along the coast for a while and Danny pointed out landmarks. We lined up for the ferry across the narrow strait.

Dark skies do make for great photos though

Catching the ferry was fun and the flashes of lightning and rumbles of thunder added a little spice to the scene

Not long after we drove off the ferry the rain started absolutely smashing down and then the hail started.

Apparently you can be fined in Ireland for driving through a puddle and drenching a pedestrian, which doesn’t seem like a policy in line with the famed Irish love of craic but there you go.

We saw a lot of tractors and I forgot I was collecting photos of them (and I’ve forgotten why) but here’s a terrible photo for the fans out there.

We stopped at the door of the Mourne Mountains in a little town called Newcastle. The mountain behind the town made it look a little like the Lake District but it was on the Irish Sea. It has a very shallow bay, apparently when the tide is low you can walk a very long way out.

We took a walk along the very pretty seafront, which was marred by a high cement wall and worse around the town’s public swimming pool.

We stopped in a pub for a drink. The whole place was very quiet for a not-totally-freezing Sunday afternoon.

On the way home the sun came out.

Irish rainbows have to be extra special, surely?

We finished the evening with a picky tea of fancy cheese and Peter’s delicious soy and chilli cucumbers – yet another dish I’ll have to try out at home.

Good night!

26Jun2023

Belfast: Day 2: Family, Murals, Muddler’s Club, Hardy Bucks!

by Miss Penny Black

When Danny and I were doing the Camino he would have a quick chat to his mum every day and I would be sure to yell hello from the background as I’d met Danny’s mother, Kathryn, years ago… decades ago, actually! So we all met up for brunch at an art gallery in the middle of the city. Somewhat embarrassingly for the rest of us, Kathy was much more fashionably dressed and had also been out filming interviews for a community project while we’d been dragging ourselves out of bed.

Brunch was lovely and the cafe was quiet despite the city being very busy when we got outside.

While in the gallery we went to look at an exhibition of teapots, which I thought I’d send photos of to Charmaine since we’d been to a tea cosy festival last year.

We did not manage to find the teapots but did spend a surprising amount of time in the lift going up and down looking for them. Oh well!

The exhibitions we did find were a bit sparse.

Much better to be out on the streets where Belfast really shines.

Excellent!

Such fantastic diversity in themes and styles and so huge! Many were commissioned as part of a festival.

Being a Saturday afternoon, all of Belfast’s demographics were out in the cathedral quarter.

We walked through a covered market and I bought some hand-painted cards.

I’m very curious about this cheese.

This one reminded me of Lea, who loved sticky toffee pudding but maybe not enough to try it as a cheese flavour.

Peter always describes people who behave wildly as ‘wee hallions’.

More art.

It’s almost everywhere you look and really contributes to the vibrant character of the city.

We popped into The Sunflower for a drink. It has one of the last remaining entry cages from The Troubles.

Nowadays they do pizzas and music and it’s very relaxed.

Yet more art, this one is one of my favourites.

Before going back home, a visit to a fancy cheese shop.

I didn’t mention Freddie yesterday, he is Peter and Danny’s dog and a cockapoo. He is very cuddly and spends almost all his time doing this.

It makes me miss Bonnie even more!

We had a very fancy dinner booked at restaurant called The Muddler’s Club so we got changed then headed back into the city. I had been feeling the hay fever again so I took some tablets, not thinking that one of them acted like a sedative and I was drowsy all evening.

Despite my sleepiness the food was amazing; two entrees, two mains and two desserts with bread and a plate of tiny appetisers.

We had matched wines and they were really well matched, especially the entree that was a scallop with iberico ham in a butter and pea sauce. I think of all the courses, that’s the one I won’t forget.

After dinner we went for a drink in this fancy building.

The drinks were absolutely delicious but they were at the top of the scale, price-wise too. Worth it for the very luxurious atmosphere and they did come with some snacks.

Slightly worried about the end of public transport time, we caught the glider (a bus/tram hybrid) back to Ballyhackamore and had a last couple of drinks at a very buzzing brewery (Bullhouse East) that we had visited the night before.

On returning home we watched a few episodes of a very Trailer Park Boys style show called Hardy Bucks, a show about some complete drop kicks, set in small town Ireland. As you could probably predict, Luke and I understood about one word in ten and none of the Irish in-jokes but found it amusing anyhow.