Monthly Archives: May 2018

Coniston to Ambleside

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Keen observers will note that Ambleside isn’t anywhere near the Cumbria Way – I made a diversion late in the day via bus because there was no accommodation in Elterwater. But I shall begin at the beginning!

I had a mostly lovely day’s walking. When I set out from Coniston the sun was out, the birds were singing and I stopped far too frequently to take photos of the countryside and listen to fighter jets zoom overhead as I passed through Tarn How Wood. I watched one come up the valley, flying really low. Another classic Lakeland experience!

I met a group of ladies who were also doing the Cumbria Way and they goggled at my pack. They told me they were stopping at The Old Dungeon Ghyll, probably the most famous walkers’ pub in the Lakes (well, in my limited understanding) but I had a strong feeling I wouldn’t get that far that day, which turned out to be correct.

At some point I took a wrong turn. For most of the walk I had assiduously checked my map every five minutes but I walked through a field of adorable sheep and terrific views and I think I missed a turn.

I ended up heading back south towards Coniston Water instead of north to Tarn How. Fortunately I found a local in my wandering and he looked at my map and set me right and I wasn’t too far out of the way. I ended up walking through a beautiful forest and saying hello to a lady who was also off on a solo camping expedition, the only differences being that she was on a horse and also (I imagine) not suddenly filled with raging jealousy, like I was. Then I remembered that I’m allergic to horses so it’s probably just as well I didn’t try to mug her.

Eventually I made it through the forest and found public toilets, right after spending the previous hour wishing I could find one. How fortuitous! Also it turned out that Tarn How is a super popular spot that people can even get around in wheelchairs so it’s not surprising that there were public toilets. I was grateful anyhow, and walked around a corner of the lake. I’ve heard it described as one of the prettiest tarns in the Lake District. Personally I think it was ok, but maybe the weather wasn’t doing it justice and it didn’t really compare to the magnificence I’d walked through on the previous four days.

I talked to a man who bore a startling resemblance to his bulldog and we discussed dog training for a while then I headed off again, away from civilisation.

This was the bit where the rain started, and it didn’t stop for the rest of the walk. I decided to cut a section off and walk alongside the road for a bit. At one point I heard a loud ‘HELLO,’ and who should I see cycling past but the landlord of the Stan Laurel where I stayed in Ulverston. I literally know two people by face in this whole corner of England and I walk right by one. What are the chances?

I found that the combination of nice solid and flat road surface and rain really sped up my progress and I made it Elterwalter fairly early in the afternoon. I’d set off from Coniston at about 10 and got to Elterwater at about 2:30. I stopped at a fancy hotel, the Eltermere, for a rest stop and had a nice scone with jam and clotted cream, made even more pleasant by their open fire right next to me.

I looked up the accommodation nearby and realised Luke and I stayed at The Britannia in Elterwater last time we were here, but nowhere had rooms and the bus to Ambleside left in five minutes so the choice was made.

I ended up at The Queen’s Hotel, and it was much cheaper than The Sun, although also not quite as nice. I ended up sitting at the bar and chatting to the dour barman and the upbeat barmaid all evening. Well, when I say ‘all evening’ I mean until 7:30, when I went to bed to read and then was asleep by 8:30.

Travelling is tiring! Even though I’m not working I feel exhausted by the middle of every afternoon. Do you find this when you’re on holidays? Maybe I need to develop a coffee addiction so I can push through 🙂 .

A Day In Coniston

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The guidebook I bought for the Lake District years ago did not have nice things to say about Coniston. It basically implied it was a tiny mining village with little to offer. Times must have changed if property prices are any to go by.

One of the main intersections in Coniston.

Actually Coniston has a number of historic pubs, beautiful views, a useful range of shops and most of the accommodation, if booking.com is anything to go by, isn’t cheap. A lot of the houses in the village are built of stone and have that dark, brooding gravitas that slate lends to a place. I really like it.

I decided, on my one full day here, to go for a boat ride around the lake then go and look at Brantwood, the home of John Ruskin. The only other person staying at the pub is an American fellow who is an historian with an interest in John Ruskin so he told me a little at breakfast and then I ended up seeing him at Brantwood later in the day.

I walked down the hill to the lake and did a little Facebook live video while I waited for the boat and went for a walk. Being a teacher, I’m perfectly happy to drone on at length about nothing in particular, although I did find myself talking about socks and wondering if anyone was still listening. When I listened back to it I realised the wind noise was unbearable but lesson learned, I will do them indoors or on still days from now on.

I had meant to go on the steam boat but this was the only one there when I got to the dock.

I was the only passenger on the boat so I had a private tour and enjoyed asking lots of questions and getting a more personal insight into the area. We motored past the island that features in Swallows and Amazons, which is a series of children’s books and two movies and is apparently a big deal even though I hadn’t heard of it until I read my guide book. I have downloaded the first book though and will read it next.

The boat dropped me off at Brantwood, which is almost directly opposite Coniston on the other side of the lake. It’s a group of buildings where John Ruskin spent the last few decades of his life. He was a great thinker, writer, artist, poet… basically a Victorian renaissance man. He went mad in his later years and it sounded a lot like bi-polar to me. The video introduction, that the man at the front desk insisted we watch, was a bit odd. Apart from having weirdly dramatic synth music playing over the top, it completely neglected to mention any female or non-famous person’s presence in JR’s life. I came away wondering if he’d ever married, which of course was a tip-off that his relationship was scandalous and not entirely happy. The gift shop had lots of books on his wife and her achievements but I didn’t investigate. Really, I was here for the gardens and wallpaper.

He designed this wallpaper himself and JR was a big supporter of my favourite art movement, the Pre Raphaelites.

The inside of the house was lovely although insanely creaky. No creeping up on anyone here!

The views from from the windows were stunning in every direction. Forest on one side, lake on the other.

The grounds were supposed to have areas with distinct themes but mainly they were semi-wild with a few bluebells and ferns. From the dock to the buildings was better maintained but I dare say it’s one of those National Trust places where the income doesn’t really cover the upkeep of everything.

John Ruskin’s chair. Surprisingly comfortable in angle but I can only assume he took a cushion or two.

Several people had touted the cafe and it was indeed very nice. I had a carrot and honey soup. After the oversized breakfast at the hotel, soup seemed like a good choice on a cold and relatively sedate day.

All in all a very pleasant day where I learned, looked and listened. My feet and shoulders enjoyed the break and by evening I felt almost ready to tear myself away from the cloud-like comfort of my bed at The Sun. Onwards and upwards tomorrow!

Cumbria Way : Day 2

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Most people would walk to Coniston in their first day of TCW but I am a bit unfit and quite lazy so I decided to get there on day two. Also people in other blogs said the last few kilometres by Coniston Water are a real slog and I wanted to enjoy it.

I actually slept better than in the hostel in London. Nothing beats an absence of snoring. Nothing!

So I had a cold and small breakfast (having a huge Full English Breakfast before saddling up for a major walk seems like insanity to me, but it’s tradition here) of cheese and hummus on tortillas, then set off.

If I didn’t see many people yesterday, I could halve that number today. I saw literally no one, not a soul, for the first four hours. I have read that the Lake District can be heaving with tourists all year round but that hasn’t been my experience so far. Maybe I’m not in the busy part yet? Anyhow, I enjoyed the views and took my time.

The stream above was my last view before I climbed a hill to reach Beacon Tarn, my first proper geographic feature.

And still no one in sight.

I sat to dry out my map (I’d used it as a ground sheet the night before – it was a waterproof OS map. So useful!) and have a snack and look at the water. After twenty minutes I looked behind me and a bunch of sheep had snuck up and were giving me baleful looks.

I like sheep. They are quiet and easy to ignore. Not like cows! Anyhoo, right after Beacon Tarn the landscape really opened up and there was a fabulous vista across to the Langdales. Probably. Someone correct me if I’m wrong.

While the landscape was stunning it was also difficult to walk across. The path couldn’t decide whether or not it wanted to be a stream or a bog, and so in many places it was both.

The problem in the photo above isn’t actually the steam crossing, it’s the getting to and from – it’s all mud. I spent a lot of time walking back and forth at places like this, working out how to keep my feet dry. I succeeded though, so in your face, nature!

I will admit that the pack continued to weigh on me, and after about 10 km I got to a point where I was just bent over, dragging my walking poles like a cave man would drag his club and thinking tired thoughts. Fortunately I came to a stream that had a grassy bank, wildflowers and sun shine. It was time to sit down.

Over the next hill was Coniston Water and also phone reception. I took this stretch pretty easy, stopping to take photos, upload a few photos and rest every kilometre. My shoulders were getting very sore and dark clouds were rolling in.

Eventually I staggered into town and found The Sun Inn and a bunch of other walkers outside. I ended up sitting with them for a few hours then booking into the hotel when the rain started coming down in sheets.

I cannot tell you how good my pie and chips tasted. I might have even had a small tear in my eye at the fact that I was indoors by an open fire, I’d walked through stunning scenery and I had a comfy bed and my own private, indoor bathroom to use for the first time in nearly a week. In fact it was so good I booked two nights.

Marvellous!

The Cumbria Way: Day One

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First order of the day was to mail a package of clothes to Cambridge, which left me with the clothes I was wearing and one change. Plus I also sent off my other pair of shoes and a few bits and pieces. I can’t tell you how many hours of thought I put into every item in my bag, but after lugging it even a short way I found I could happily let quite a few things go. I imagine I am not alone in this experience.

Pub breakfast with my usual accompaniment of iPad and blogging.

Unfortunately when I got to the post office I realised that I still had my room key in my pocket, which meant walking back in the opposite direction. Less than half a kilometre, but still, I was annoyed at myself for getting off to a bad start.

However the weather was perfect and when I got to the monument that marks the beginning of The Way it was festooned in very new-looking banners. Someone has let them know I was coming, obviously;-). No brass band to send me off, which was disappointing, but one cannot have everything I suppose.

Just kidding - a walking festival started the day I arrived. Good timing though!

The very first bit out of town is a short, somewhat steep hill then there’s a walk through some lush fields, over stiles and very soon the town is out of sight. The very most unpleasant part of the day, terrain wise, was very early on. A series of cow-filled fields that smelled like the Bog of Eternal Stench, which only grew worse as the farm buildings loomed closer. I couldn’t believe the intensity of the odour as I passed between the buildings then had to navigate an actual bog for a few hundred metres, struggling to find grassy lumps to put my feet down on so I wouldn’t sink in up to the ankles.

It was all massively frustrating, primarily because I’ve never hit that sort of terrain in Australia and I also felt a bit worried about the cows in the field because another uk blogger I follow (www.coastalwalker.co.uk ) is always talking about the dangers of cows. Did you know they are the most deadly animal (bar humans I suppose) in the UK, and they kill people by knocking them down then crushing their victim’s ribs in by pressing with their heads? I’m not saying this happens on a daily basis, but knowing it happens at all when you’re standing with a few of the beasts in a spot where you can’t get up any speed… well, it didn’t leave me in the best head space.

Then I got out of the mire and walked up a hill where a bluebell Wood was just coming into flower. It was lovely so I stopped to take a photo.

Except I couldn’t find my phone. Then I thought maybe I’d put it in my shirt pocket and it had fallen out while climbing a stile and then I would have to go back through the cow field and I swear to god I nearly started crying and wondered what on earth I thought I was doing and maybe I shouldn’t even be here.

Of course I then found my phone in one of the hundred or so pockets that my backpack has. Which led me to have a good think about being resilient and why I reacted so strongly. I am not the sort of person who likes to step far from my known physical limits and I almost never take anything close to a risk. So to find that, after all my careful planning and thinking, I might have made a stupid and easily-avoided mistake, was upsetting. Still, the whole thing was a good reminder to just be thorough, don’t panic and always put precious things in the same, zip-up pocket rather than moving them around. During the day I developed a system of where to keep various items so they would be accessible and now I feel much better.

Anyhow! Apart from that blip things went very well. I met a Scottish woman while I was having a snack break and she stopped to chat for a while (you’re camping? My goodness!) it was nice to meet another solo female. Then I met a retired couple and walked with them for a couple of hours until they split off to find their accommodation.

This is the view I had pretty much all day.

I don’t really know what walker etiquette is in terms of how long you keep going with people you start chatting to… I guess people make it clear if they want to be alone. They were very friendly though and we had a good time and I didn’t feel he need to look at my map every five steps, which is what I do when I’m alone.

After that I didn’t see another soul. I decided to camp at a place called Birch Bank, about half a km from the trail. It was quite a remote spot and I’d called ahead to make sure there was room but only got their answering machine.

Not that it mattered – I was the only person there.

Having taken it very easy (I’d walked about 14km in 7 hours) , I arrived at about 4pm. I pitched out of the wind and in the sun and I had time to sit and read a bit of The Inimitable Jeeves before cooking a unique mix of two minute noodles and couscous, then donning every warm thing I owned and rolling into my sleeping bag. I think I was asleep before the sun set at 8:30.

A day well spent!

As I was walking I was wondering – what are other people’s must-have camping equipment? Do you take any luxury items? My pack feels so pared-down now that unless I ditched the jetboil and fuel I don’t think I could leave anything else out… and yet it is so heavy!

Here Comes The Planet 61 – Uganda 03

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We spend some time at Lake Bunyonyi visiting the local “crazy old lady”, as well as the children at the Little Angels school, where the girls give a positively roaring rendition of “Old McDonald” and Pete looks to be right at home with all the dancing.

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Yes, I am still posting videos from our trip in 2013. I have many, many more still to go, which can be a bit daunting at times, plus since so much time has passed between then and now, not as many people are watching them. So while the blog is a bit more active over the next few months, it seems like a good time to make a concerted effort to work on them. It’s my way of contributing from home! I’ll be posting them up until I depart, at which point I’ll be filming new episodes. Apologies for the jumbled chronology, but I’m sure you’ll all get by. Maybe I’ll post them up on Thursdays? #throwbackthursday! ;D